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2004 XF Limited Coupe... 56K miles.
Just recently bought the car... a few months ago.
I have since put around 300 miles on it.
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My engine light has been coming on.
I did a reset by disconnecting the battery, but it came back.
I popped my new diagnostic scanner on and I'm getting a P0410 code.
I'm also getting a couple other things that might need attention.
One seems to be an old code that was corrected.
I'm guessing the seat belt tensioner fault might be there because the car was running without the seat belt being snapped in ...as if I was driving??
So... should I try to clean some connections first?
Where do I start?

Is it okay to drive for now until I get this stuff fixed??
Advice appreciated !!

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The PO410 is most likely burnt relay contacts on the air pump relay location in the relay control module (RCM).
I can refurbish your RCM by replacing the relays and redoing the bad solder joints (another RCM issue).
Email tighed1@hotmail.com for the details.

 

My understanding is to check the fuse first.
If the fuse is good, it's most likely that the RCM needs a refurb.
The last possibility is that the pump itself stopped working.

Let me check the fuses first, then I'll go from there.

 

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There is also the little blue check valve sourced here (1991-2015 Mercedes-Benz Check Valve 002-140-84-60 | MB OEM Parts) that could also be the issue, check this post for information (P0410 - Secondary Air Injection Problem - CrossfireForum - The Chrysler Crossfire and SRT6 Resource), POST #4 (partially states): The little BLUE check valve #12 in the illustration is a known issue with the Secondary air injection system. It is prone to sticking closed. This check valve is between the vacuum control solenoid and the diverter valves which allow fresh air to flow to the exhaust. When this valve is stuck it can not open the diverters. This sets the P0410 code, due to the O2 sensors not seeing a change from the fresh air being injected. The valve is located @ (passenger) front corner of the engine, under the engine cover. Bright Blue valve in the vacuum hose. If you change it yourself pay close attention to the position of the arrow (molded into the plastic) it indicates direction of flow. Good luck!


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I recognize the fact that you have added threads that could help solve RCM issues, but I think you have wandered off track a little. This forum is to help people directly and save them money in the process if possible
You may not have realized it but any question that may involve the RCM always ends up with an advert for your services. I realize that it may be helpful to some people but there are threads that could prevent someone sending you a perfectly good RCM. I hope you take my words as just a friendly bit of advice, no malice intended.
There are threads of yours which explain how to do all of the work you do, how to test the RCM for troublesome relays, the horny all the time mod and the other reasons for the symptoms. Using these threads someone in trouble could have the car back on the road the same day. If you pointed out these threads of yours you could easily mention that you could do it if they were unable to.
I found the correct relay for the repair years ago and they are freely and cheaply available albeit in quantities of ten, but easily shared with members here. The resoldering of the three joints was explained in an SLK forum two or three years before you raised it here with no acknowledgement to the original SLK thread of which it is almost a copy.

 

Yep... some further reading confirms that as a possible problem.
Since it's only $13 I'll give that a try, too... Thanks!