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Re: Remote fob problems
Originally Posted by zip439
(Post 978507)
When you push the FOB unlock button do you see a dim red light in the plastic window on the front of the FOB?? If no, you may need new batteries in the FOB or the contacts within the battery compartment of the FOB need adjustment. If you see the dim light flash then the likely answer to your problem is in this thread. Read post # 2 and #6. You should either disconnect or replace the siren under the windshield cowl.
I will continue troubleshooting. |
Re: Remote fob problems
Originally Posted by adoni
(Post 978631)
Started with new batteries, after changing car battery, just to be sure. I will look into posts #2 & #6. It's still odd though, I turn the fob one turn, so it's vertical. Press lock, doors lock, press unlock, doors unlock. Turn fob off, exit car, fob only makes lights flash.
I will continue troubleshooting. But then you say "lights flash". Unfortunately, this is not helpful - exactly WHICH LIGHTS FLASH? The answer to this question tells us where the breakdown is. The FOB signals the SKREEM. The SKREEM flashes the turn signal lights and then tells the CLP/SSM to lock/unlock the doors. So if the SKREEM is flashing the turn signals (once for unlock, three times for lock), and the locks do not activate, it would appear that the SKREEM and CLP/SSM are not talking. The fact things work from the ignition switch and console button tells us that the CLP/SSM might be OK. If the SKREEM can't tell the CLP/SSM to lock/unlock the doors, communication path from SKREEM is: SKREEEM----BCM----CLP/SSM. THis means any one of these three modules can be the issue. Since replacing the batter in the car seemed to start this, I"d do this: Turn headlights on. Disconnect battery and leave it so for 1/2 minute. Reconnect battery (dont let the spark bother you). Turn headlights off. Try FOB now. See if things work. If not, its one of the three modules. If this is the case, sit and think, is there ANYTHING else about the car that is not working after the battery change? Reverse lights? Gear indicator? Wing? The fact the FOB flashes lights tells me the SKREEM is hearing and responding to the FOB. |
Re: Remote fob problems
As Zip said... "When you push the FOB unlock button do you see a dim red light in the plastic window on the front of the FOB?? " If not and new batteries have been installed do this first... We can all thank Josh at Mercedes Swap Shop for this.
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Re: Remote fob problems
Originally Posted by Deepsea21
(Post 978635)
As Zip said... "When you push the FOB unlock button do you see a dim red light in the plastic window on the front of the FOB?? " If not and new batteries have been installed do this first... We can all thank Josh at Mercedes Swap Shop for this.
We can't help, if they won't help us: just spinning wheels! |
Re: Remote fob problems
Originally Posted by pizzaguy
(Post 978634)
So you are telling us that the CLP/SSM works in every case except for the FOB functions.
But then you say "lights flash". Unfortunately, this is not helpful - exactly WHICH LIGHTS FLASH? <---- LIGHTS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CAR, FRONT AND REAR!!! The answer to this question tells us where the breakdown is. The FOB signals the SKREEM. The SKREEM flashes the turn signal lights and then tells the CLP/SSM to lock/unlock the doors. So if the SKREEM is flashing the turn signals (once for unlock, three times for lock), and the locks do not activate, it would appear that the SKREEM and CLP/SSM are not talking. The fact things work from the ignition switch and console button tells us that the CLP/SSM might be OK. If the SKREEM can't tell the CLP/SSM to lock/unlock the doors, communication path from SKREEM is: SKREEEM----BCM----CLP/SSM. THis means any one of these three modules can be the issue. Since replacing the batter in the car seemed to start this, I"d do this: Turn headlights on. Disconnect battery and leave it so for 1/2 minute. Reconnect battery (dont let the spark bother you). Turn headlights off. <---- I WILL TRY THIS!! Try FOB now. See if things work. If not, its one of the three modules. If this is the case, sit and think, is there ANYTHING else about the car that is not working after the battery change? Reverse lights? Gear indicator? Wing? The fact the FOB flashes lights tells me the SKREEM is hearing and responding to the FOB. |
Re: Remote fob problems
pizzaguy,
Did the battery thing, no change. Lock makes the ALL EXTERIOR lights flash 3 times, unlock makes the ALL EXTERIOR lights flash once. There are no other issues with the car, none. All exterior lights work, dash is lit up, cabin lights do NOT work and I read that they are interconnected to the lock/unlock feature. Based on your routing description. SKREEM is doing it's job, BCM or CLP/SSM, or both, might be at fault. Thanks for the assist. |
Re: Remote fob problems
Originally Posted by adoni
(Post 978723)
Based on your routing description. SKREEM is doing it's job, BCM or CLP/SSM, or both, might be at fault.
Thanks for the assist. Here is a helpful note: EVERY CROSSSFIRE MADE has the same CLP/SSM. Coupe? Roadster? Base? Limited? SRT? 2004 to 2008 All the same part. I bought one for $120 with part of the wiring harness attached this last time, came from a Coupe, put it in my ROadster - works fine. BCMs appears to have a variety of versions. Just beware............. |
Re: Remote fob problems
Originally Posted by pizzaguy
(Post 978727)
CLP/SSMs are far more often at fault than BCMs.
Here is a helpful note: EVERY CROSSSFIRE MADE has the same CLP/SSM. Coupe? Roadster? Base? Limited? SRT? 2004 to 2008 All the same part. I bought one for $120 with part of the wiring harness attached this last time, came from a Coupe, put it in my ROadster - works fine. BCMs appears to have a variety of versions. Just beware............. I'm not sure how to test that relay, but I would go there first, before getting into the SSM/CLP. What do you think? |
Re: Remote fob problems
It seems that relay is actually the flasher for the lights, and those seem to be working, so that gets us back to the SSM/CLP.
This is one of those where a good scan from a DRB III or emulater could really help. Hope it is not the SKREEM itself; Seems so many problems with the SKREEM come up after weak battery voltage drop or a battery change. |
Re: Remote fob problems
1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by zip439
(Post 978740)
It seems that relay is actually the flasher for the lights, and those seem to be working, so that gets us back to the SSM/CLP.
This is one of those where a good scan from a DRB III or emulater could really help. Hope it is not the SKREEM itself; Seems so many problems with the SKREEM come up after weak battery voltage drop or a battery change. I can offer the PDF below, not sure what else I can offer at this point. (SUPER busy with work, got two projects due at the end of the month. Gotta get with it, so I can take two weeks off in May to see the kids) |
Re: Remote fob problems
Back up the page I said the OP should disconnect the siren. If that thing isn't working I still believe he should do that. He also said every thing else is working, but he needs to check the map lights in the interior and the hatch/truck light. If those aren't working fuse 9 is blown and that is why he can't unlock/lock his car.
I just read OP post #26; no interior lights. HE NEEDS TO DISCONNECT THE SIREN AND CHECK FUSE 9 UNDER THE HOOD. |
Re: Remote fob problems
adoni:
The PDF by Pizzaguy is a really great piece to help understand the SKREEM and the SSM/CLP relationship, but so you do not get the wrong idea there are a couple errors that need to be pointed out so you do not run down a rabbit hole. The diagram 4.1 neglects the Body Control Model, which lies between the SKREEM and the SSM/CLP. Pizzaguy talked about the BCM in a few of his post above. Back on page 9 the comments about the flashing lights Fog, turn signals , etc is misleading. The Fog lights, side marker lights and the small marker light in the upper corners of the headlights blink only when the PANIC button is pushed on the FOB. In fact you must hold the PANIC button for about two seconds to activate the siren and the Fog lights. The FOG lights do not flash when only the lock/unlock buttons are used. I just tested that on my SRT6 and it is a correct statement. I can not verify it on a Limited at this time because my Limited is getting a new paint job and I do not have access to it right now. Does your PANIC button activate the alarm/siren when pushed for at least two seconds?? If your siren is dead the internal batteries have leaked and that can cause a lot of problems. It is why I recommended in an earlier post to disconnect the siren so as to clear it from the system and thus it will not contribute to any problems. Getting it out of all the circuitry at this point is the best thing to do if it does not sound when you push the PANIC button. Check/ replace fuse #9 in the under hood fuse block. ( It is not located on the side of the dash). If that fuse is blown, or there is a problem in the circuit ( like the siren) your locks will not function from the FOB. |
Re: Remote fob problems
Originally Posted by zip439
(Post 978752)
adoni:
The PDF by Pizzaguy is a really great piece to help understand the SKREEM and the SSM/CLP relationship, but so you do not get the wrong idea there are a couple errors that need to be pointed out so you do not run down a rabbit hole. The diagram 4.1 neglects the Body Control Model, which lies between the SKREEM and the SSM/CLP. Pizzaguy talked about the BCM in a few of his post above. Back on page 9 the comments about the flashing lights Fog, turn signals , etc is misleading. The Fog lights, side marker lights and the small marker light in the upper corners of the headlights blink only when the PANIC button is pushed on the FOB. In fact you must hold the PANIC button for about two seconds to activate the siren and the Fog lights. The FOG lights do not flash when only the lock/unlock buttons are used. I just tested that on my SRT6 and it is a correct statement. I can not verify it on a Limited at this time because my Limited is getting a new paint job and I do not have access to it right now. Does your PANIC button activate the alarm/siren when pushed for at least two seconds?? If your siren is dead the internal batteries have leaked and that can cause a lot of problems. It is why I recommended in an earlier post to disconnect the siren so as to clear it from the system and thus it will not contribute to any problems. Getting it out of all the circuitry at this point is the best thing to do if it does not sound when you push the PANIC button. Check/ replace fuse #9 in the under hood fuse block. ( It is not located on the side of the dash). If that fuse is blown, or there is a problem in the circuit ( like the siren) your locks will not function from the FOB. Thank you to ALL that have responded. I apologize for not replying quickly. Got some health issues going on, I'm in good hands and so far, thank the Lord, nothing serious. Again, THANK YOU TO ALL ! |
Re: Remote fob problems
Originally Posted by zip439
(Post 978752)
adoni:
The diagram 4.1 neglects the Body Control Model, which lies between the SKREEM and the SSM/CLP. I MIGHT add the BCM but I kinda hate to...... |
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