My remote has never worked which has made locking the car difficult. I know it is transmitting but the car is not responding tried to pair many times.
Scan tool is reporting a problem:
B1000 Stored&Current N54/3 (Radio DAS control module)
and reports the module as a:
MB number 170 820 18 26
My question is if I replace the module with another, does it have to be programmed to my car ?
If so I'll probably pursue another option.
Thank you.

 

You have been here ten years.
You have over 2000 posts.
And you didn't once read about how the SKREEM is programmed specifically to work with the RFID chip in the key(s) and the codes set in the PTCM? How did you miss all the posts and threads about SKREEM issues over the last ten years? And how did you miss the posts from about 2018 to 2021 when we had no source for SKREEM fixes, and a few cars sat for well over a year, waiting for someone to come up with a fix, since new SKREEMS were not available?

This is why I cringe when you offer technical advice to any new member. This is also why I warn new users:
KEEP IN MIND that many here try to help, but we have some posters who don’t even change their own oil and yet, seem to think they can help you bleed the brakes, replace the clutch, diagnose your no-start or help you with that battery that keeps running down. In your hurry for a quick answer, be careful what advice you take.

The warning is found here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tech-help.html

 

Ouch!
One more post and I hit 25,000 bits of useless information.
I have been doing some FB posts lately, 99% of the answers can be found here.

 

First response was a bit harsh but have no problem starting and running with keys. What I cannot do is lock the passenger side or hatch except from the console and door nust be closed and key on. But know pump etc works properly.
Know fob is transmitting on proper frequency and has chip.
Remote(fob) lock/unlock does nothing. Have tried to reset (several methods) many times. Does not work
Key in driver's door locks/unlcks that door only, not all.
Scan tool points at module by pump identifies as MB number 170 820 18 26
SKREEM appers to be working, chip identifier is working, door lock/unlock is not.
Have reviewed a large number of post. Most relate to No Start. Is not my issue.
Make more sense now ?

 

Now am a little confused, seen to have gotten the wrong part number from scan tool.170 820 18 26 is the immobilizer behind the dash. Where I need to check is the at the pump to see if it is getting the proper signals.
Antitheft dows not seem to work but if try to start three times and fails it must be reset before will try again. Everything seems to point to SKREEM not being there at all but instrument cluster seems to be glued in place so hard to remove. Since all I need to do is to be able to lock/unlock my need is different. Guess I was misinformed. Apologies.

OK new radio arrives tomorrow so need to remove anyway will pull the swtich panel and instrument the lock/unlock system. May be able to control there.

 

Padgett, Note the signal that the Fob generates is first received by the SKREEM. The SKREEM is the receiving "antenna" for all the down stream modules. This block diagram.was posted by pizzaguy several times recently

 

Your time is wasting on FB ~ Time is better spent here, Come on 180, just one more post!

 

OK please understand, my new coupe is strange. BCM works lock/unlock properly but gets no signal from the FOB. Car starts with both keys and runs properly (except three start tries that do not start and no more tries allowed. Must reset "something" first).

OTOH it acts as if the SKREEM is not there or has been somehow disabled
- remotes cannot be reset. Is transmitting properly. Can read chip in key.
- key in door lock only locks door, not other door or hatch
- with key on and door closed, console switch locks/unlocks everything
- anti-theft not working, no alarm.
- good scan tool cannot talk to SKREEM
- instrument cluster is glued in place making access difficult
- got a great deal on a nice car, may be why.

Have read a few hundred posts now Nothing matches these symptoms. Stars and runs just fine.
Single DIN Android Auto wireless radio should arrive today and will have access to console switch (can lock/unlock). May just put a lock button in wheel well
Have replaced radios in both '07 coupe and '01 SLK320 so no big.

And that is the whole story. Have been gathering info but may also try a dumb fob on console switch leads and see if BCM responds. Also have plans B and C if that does not work may have to access at CLP/SSM.

Hopefully this all makes more sense now. Have not been ignoring previous posts just never found one that matches my issue.

 

If I read it correctly you have just swapped the innards of the fob into a new case. Did you lose the chip or damage the transmitter?

 

Oh my, so many mythconceptions. Problem with fob was that key was not coming out. Bought a pair of new cases to play with. Used the snap ring pliers to open one of the spares to learn how. Took original and used snap ring piers to pop the key end, some debris fell out. Now key snaps out properly so just popped original back together. Key starts and runs car. Is transmitting on 300-320Mhz, can read chip (found my reader). So fob is original and intact and works (or not) as originally described.
Bottom line it starts and runs great but have no way to lock car from outside.
Aftermarket radio to Crossfire wiring adapter should be here Monday and when remove to install Android Auto radio with 7" scream will run some tests on the console lock switch.
However have found no mention of one that act like mine. I suspect the SKREEM may not even be there.

 

If someone did do a skreem delete, the Fob part *unlock and locks* wouldn't work. In a another post, skreem does more then just start the car.

 

Correct, fob is transmitting and has chip but the fob does not lock or unlock anything. The physical key only locks/unlocks drivers door. That is the problem, I cannot lock the passenger door or the hatch from outside.

Have the new Android Auto working on the bench, just waiting for the Crossfire adapter.

 

With a skreem delete and they removed the skreem , transponder wouldn't do anything. Car turns on like normal precisionecu does this in a certain way, it also same way they burn up ecus

 

SKREEM delete is kinda what all of this is pointing at/to/for. If so what did you mean by "it also same way they burn up ecus". Is something else at risk ?

Sounds like anti-theft is also not working. If so should be easy to connect a dumb RKE with a second set of fobs to lock/unlock.

Been trying to trace the PO but so far no luck, looks why went through auction..twice. However have tools and equipment to handle near anything and when done will have a very presentable car for pocket change.

 

We already have something what we call a key delete
it a proper way of the delete all I ask is watch the whole video

 

Yes, I've talked to Josh before and seems "something" like that has already been done, question is what ? Acts like the SKREEM is still there just has lost its mind so keys work, fobs do not. Instrument cluster is glued in place so not easy to remove. No idea how to measure ECU current draw. Anyone know ?
Got very deep in trying to duplicate RFID chips in 2018 so can read chips just missed something so chips never worked. Was many Drs. ago so needed to remember.

 

Skreem deletes been done by different people. Our delete, get rid of the need of RFID to start the car. The fob functions still work like normal (unlock, lock, and panic) So the skreem has to be their for these functions to work. You can start the car with just a cut blade.

 

Oy. Veh even.

 

I have a similar problem, doors don't unlock with fob. Console works, auto-lock works AND if I put the fob in the ignition, turn one turn, fob is vertical, the doors lock and unlock. Panic doesn't work. Issue started when I let car sit without battery tender. Battery was dated 12/2015. Got new battery, then fob issue started. Tried all sorts of the re-programming techniques .. no luck.

 

When you push the FOB unlock button do you see a dim red light in the plastic window on the front of the FOB?? If no, you may need new batteries in the FOB or the contacts within the battery compartment of the FOB need adjustment. If you see the dim light flash then the likely answer to your problem is in this thread. Read post # 2 and #6. You should either disconnect or replace the siren under the windshield cowl.