I've seen multiple threads on "check engine light"...and now I'm one of them. With 31k, I've been to the dealer twice in the last few hundred miles for the light. Each time they replaced a check valve or two. Now it's on again just days after the last visit. Sure thought all the high tech OBD was supposed to allow them to find these things. Time for visit #3.

 

I just got my first check engine light this weekend at 41k, turns out it was a fried injector chip.

 

so what's it gonna take to fix that?

 

I dropped it in this morning and they've switched it out for a new one. It's under warranty thankfully, so zero charge.

 

Looks as if mine is the loss on an internal ground in the CPU. It took the third trip for the light to come on for the tech. New CPU on order.

 

I also have the check engine light problem, its on for about one full day then good the next then on again. About all I can do is open the gas cap, if its been gassed up. Other wise I think I might have to take it in to my dealership but I just don't want to be without my XFIRE she love's me and I love her. I know I got to get this looked at in case of a bigger problem.

 

The new CPU arrived. Glad it was covered... $1,700 part. No surprise, really. Just happy not to foot the bill myself.

 

After picking up the Xfire today with the new CPU it seems a bit sluggish. Does the throttle "reset" described in other posts apply here? Does the "reset" then put it back in a training mode for future driving style?

 

I just got mine back yesterday with a new air censor one of a possible ten censors that might be related I guess and by the end of the day the engine light was on again. In a day or so the car will have to go back for fix #2 in a few short years I'll have lots of new parts in it because Chrysler don't know how to fix them right.
Still love my XFIRE.

 

Unfortunately they also slightly cracked the engine cover...pulled up on the front, not right over the connecting point. They've ordered a new one. Not bad in the big scheme of things I guess.

 

Just an FYI - First thing you should check when you get a check engine light is your gas cap. If its not on tight the light will come on.

Pat

 

Well, I guess I'm a happy customer. At least I didn't pay the $1,700. for the new CPU. Check Engine light is back on! Watch it turn out to be a faulty light circuit!

 

Did they actually tell you which codes the ECU stored when the light was triggered? Or are they saying that a ground track in the ECU was the cause (very unlikely I would think). If the light is again I would get them (or someone else with an OBD scanner) to scan it and tell you which codes are stored now. I've been tripping and resetting codes over the weekend and the system even shows codes that are pending. This is the whole point of OBD it is there to tell the techs what the problem is.

 

After replacing a couple of minor items they came to the conclusion that an internal ground was the issue in the ECU (sorry, not cpu). Two days later the light came back on. I don't know why they can't seem to nail it down. Isn't that the whole idea with OBD? It seems like a guessing game. This is the fourth time to no avail. With 33K on the odometer, I sure hope they'll cover this issue should it go past the warranty.

 

Eeeek
Just washed my car in a touchless car wash, felt the car shudder during the undercarriage wash, the "Check Engine" light came on and Houston we have a problem. The car was shaking and hesitating as I drove it home! I have to wait until my ex is back from his weekend away. In the meantime, I have backed into my laneway and I am hoping as it dries out, it will be okay.

No more car washes for my XFire. I will wear my boots and gloves and go to the spray yourself type. I was just worried that it was time to get the grime off the bottom.

Cathie

 

Car wash folks are highly underpaid, and in general won't be discerning when they spray up-under-your-innards. Let's hope the spray pressure didn't permanently embed a droplet into a critical electrical component, or seep into a connector. If you need service after the dry out, just say you were driving in a rain storm and splash back got under and then the car starting bucking...

Pay your kids to was the topside of the car only, from a distance...

A lesson learned.