Engine stalls with in the first 30 minutes of start.
Engine stalls with in the first 30 minutes of start.
Hi Guys,
Hope someone can help, I have a 2004 with 70,000 miles. Early this year I had to change my CPS when the engine would shut down at normal temp. (no problem).
Just this week, twice I had the engine shut off (stall) both times at idle w/ the a/c on and off.
Once I turn the ignition off and turn the key on the car wold run fine all day.
Any thoughts? Oh by the way, no check engine light on at all.
Hope someone can help, I have a 2004 with 70,000 miles. Early this year I had to change my CPS when the engine would shut down at normal temp. (no problem).
Just this week, twice I had the engine shut off (stall) both times at idle w/ the a/c on and off.
Once I turn the ignition off and turn the key on the car wold run fine all day.
Any thoughts? Oh by the way, no check engine light on at all.
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Age: 64
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Re: Engine stalls with in the first 30 minutes of start.
It can still be a bad CPS. Some of them (and it seems the non-Bosch are the worst about this) act goofy. A bad CPS does not ALWAYS throw a code.
If there is no other symptom, my first guess is that you got a bad or off-brand CPS. And oddball stuff like this is why many of us preach and preach that a non-Bosch part is a very bad idea and that people have GOT to stop buying them from Advance or Autozone or where ever. Get one here: https://www.germanautosupply.com/sto...sensor-95.html You can get them on Amazon as well, but I've bought two from these people and the link is stored in my history, so it's easy to call up.
If you said it was idling rough or taking a lot of cranking to start ("hard starting"), then I'd suggest a dirty MAF sensor or low fuel pressure due to a bad pump or bad filter/regulator. It is a little early for you, but at 100,000 miles it is really a good idea to replace the fuel filter/regulator, plugs and plug wires.
Also, if that battery is over five years old, I'd replace it later today and go from there. (Do'nt ask me why I say this, I've explained it so many times - but an old battery in these cars can cause such odd issues that are SO hard to find that $136 for a new battery is a life saver.)
If there is no other symptom, my first guess is that you got a bad or off-brand CPS. And oddball stuff like this is why many of us preach and preach that a non-Bosch part is a very bad idea and that people have GOT to stop buying them from Advance or Autozone or where ever. Get one here: https://www.germanautosupply.com/sto...sensor-95.html You can get them on Amazon as well, but I've bought two from these people and the link is stored in my history, so it's easy to call up.
If you said it was idling rough or taking a lot of cranking to start ("hard starting"), then I'd suggest a dirty MAF sensor or low fuel pressure due to a bad pump or bad filter/regulator. It is a little early for you, but at 100,000 miles it is really a good idea to replace the fuel filter/regulator, plugs and plug wires.
Also, if that battery is over five years old, I'd replace it later today and go from there. (Do'nt ask me why I say this, I've explained it so many times - but an old battery in these cars can cause such odd issues that are SO hard to find that $136 for a new battery is a life saver.)
Last edited by pizzaguy; 07-27-2015 at 10:25 AM.
Re: Engine stalls with in the first 30 minutes of start.
It can still be a bad CPS. Some of them (and it seems the non-Bosch are the worst about this) act goofy. A bad CPS does not ALWAYS throw a code.
If there is no other symptom, my first guess is that you got a bad or off-brand CPS. And oddball stuff like this is why many of us preach and preach that a non-Bosch part is a very bad idea and that people have GOT to stop buying them from Advance or Autozone or where ever. Get one here: https://www.germanautosupply.com/sto...sensor-95.html You can get them on Amazon as well, but I've bought two from these people and the link is stored in my history, so it's easy to call up.
If you said it was idling rough or taking a lot of cranking to start ("hard starting"), then I'd suggest a dirty MAF sensor or low fuel pressure due to a bad pump or bad filter/regulator. It is a little early for you, but at 100,000 miles it is really a good idea to replace the fuel filter/regulator, plugs and plug wires.
Also, if that battery is over five years old, I'd replace it later today and go from there. (Do'nt ask me why I say this, I've explained it so many times - but an old battery in these cars can cause such odd issues that are SO hard to find that $136 for a new battery is a life saver.)
If there is no other symptom, my first guess is that you got a bad or off-brand CPS. And oddball stuff like this is why many of us preach and preach that a non-Bosch part is a very bad idea and that people have GOT to stop buying them from Advance or Autozone or where ever. Get one here: https://www.germanautosupply.com/sto...sensor-95.html You can get them on Amazon as well, but I've bought two from these people and the link is stored in my history, so it's easy to call up.
If you said it was idling rough or taking a lot of cranking to start ("hard starting"), then I'd suggest a dirty MAF sensor or low fuel pressure due to a bad pump or bad filter/regulator. It is a little early for you, but at 100,000 miles it is really a good idea to replace the fuel filter/regulator, plugs and plug wires.
Also, if that battery is over five years old, I'd replace it later today and go from there. (Do'nt ask me why I say this, I've explained it so many times - but an old battery in these cars can cause such odd issues that are SO hard to find that $136 for a new battery is a life saver.)
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Age: 64
Posts: 13,469
Received 888 Likes
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Re: Engine stalls with in the first 30 minutes of start.
was just about to make a post on this, i have almost identical problems as the OP and nearly the same situation lol.
i replaced my crank shaft censor in november, bought one from advanced auto, didnt catch the brand, had my brother in law install it for me, and now just this week, its stalling on me after the first few minutes of starting the car up. but after the engine gets warmed, its fine.
guess ill be replacing it one more time, but not going to order it online and get a bosh, i plan on trading in my car here really soon, i need a quick fix for now and i dont care what problems the new owner gets.
i love this car, but its just too much trouble for my simple life, need something more dependable, as i am using this as my daily car (my only car lol)
my previous car, a honda accord, i had for 7 years, i never had any mechanical problems with it, change the oil and it was good to go.
now i did have the usual wear and tear on it, brakes, cv joings, headlights, taillights, etc.....but the engine and all its components were as dependable as anyone could have asked.
sorry for the rant, im just frustraded at the moment. you know, if i could fit my golf clubs in the hatch, i may consider keeping the car, but that is the straw that fell off the hat for me.
i replaced my crank shaft censor in november, bought one from advanced auto, didnt catch the brand, had my brother in law install it for me, and now just this week, its stalling on me after the first few minutes of starting the car up. but after the engine gets warmed, its fine.
guess ill be replacing it one more time, but not going to order it online and get a bosh, i plan on trading in my car here really soon, i need a quick fix for now and i dont care what problems the new owner gets.
i love this car, but its just too much trouble for my simple life, need something more dependable, as i am using this as my daily car (my only car lol)
my previous car, a honda accord, i had for 7 years, i never had any mechanical problems with it, change the oil and it was good to go.
now i did have the usual wear and tear on it, brakes, cv joings, headlights, taillights, etc.....but the engine and all its components were as dependable as anyone could have asked.
sorry for the rant, im just frustraded at the moment. you know, if i could fit my golf clubs in the hatch, i may consider keeping the car, but that is the straw that fell off the hat for me.
Re: Engine stalls with in the first 30 minutes of start.
Hi Guys,
Hope someone can help, I have a 2004 with 70,000 miles. Early this year I had to change my CPS when the engine would shut down at normal temp. (no problem).
Just this week, twice I had the engine shut off (stall) both times at idle w/ the a/c on and off.
Once I turn the ignition off and turn the key on the car wold run fine all day.
Any thoughts? Oh by the way, no check engine light on at all.
Hope someone can help, I have a 2004 with 70,000 miles. Early this year I had to change my CPS when the engine would shut down at normal temp. (no problem).
Just this week, twice I had the engine shut off (stall) both times at idle w/ the a/c on and off.
Once I turn the ignition off and turn the key on the car wold run fine all day.
Any thoughts? Oh by the way, no check engine light on at all.
Look forward to your feedback. THANKS
Re: Engine stalls with in the first 30 minutes of start.
Hi, did you figure out the problem (my situation sounds the same as yours)..was it your non- Bosch CPS part? My code said "change CPS" so i did, but still having problems. I even changed the cam sensor. The more i read from the help I'm getting on this forum, I'm realizing you should never buy anything copied, buy Bosch, Ugh!! What a waist of time and money going the cheap route.
Look forward to your feedback. THANKS
Look forward to your feedback. THANKS
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