Just purchased an '05 in New Mexico.
18000 miles...$9500!
I have wanted one of these since they were released and now can finally afford one!
An example with that low of mileage was going for around $15000 in Denver!
Had a great three day drive back to Northern Colorado via the winding roads of the rockies!

1. Sometimes the key will turn but the engine will not.

2. Spent 15 minutes at a gas station reading the manual trying to find out how to open the gas latch only to push on it and it popped open. At the next fill-up, it did not open but eventually did by pushing on the red button of the fob? Not sure. The owner had never used the red button. The next fill-up the latch opened by pushing.

3. No lower vent only setting? That is annoying if the temperature is nice and one finds himself cruising country roads with open windows only to have hot feet. I have never owned a vehicle without this setting.

4. Check engine came on twice for many miles. It was on while sitting in line at the emissions testing station and was told that would cause an immediate "fail". I disconnected the battery and had it tested and it failed. Was told to drive it for app. 100 miles in order to reset it. A local garage said that there was no sense in testing it until it resets. I am going to attempt to acquire a temporary[IMG]20150628_193122[/IMG] plates tomorrow so that I can now drive legally (I drove 1000 miles with no plates).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

1. Most likely see "Mystery No Start" thread.
2. Most likely the gas cap locking plunger was stuck.
3. I'm afraid that is correct.
4. Go to AutoZone or Advance and have them use a code reader. Post the resulting P codes back here.

WELCOME TO THE FORUM !!!!!!!

 

3. You can close off the dash vents by turning the wheels. Sorry-it's a Euro thing!

 

DOH !!! - didn't think of that.
Max, you owe me one Gibb's Slap

 

Pressing the red button on the fob should get the alarm to sound. If it did not then you may have another problem like the alarm has had it's internal batteries fail. The alarm can be possibly repaired if the insides are not ruined by the leaking acid or just buy a new one.

 

Check engine light after filling? When you fill it up do not try to top off. Once it clicks, stop. If you try to top it off even a little you probably get the light when it gets back down to about 1/2 a tank.

Not sure about the gas lid but there is a way to set the unlock fob buttons to lock or unlock the drivers door or all the doors with one button push. If set to only unlock the drivers side with one push you push the button a second time and everything unlocks. I have never tried to open the cap when only the drivers door unlocked. Maybe your buttons are set to only unlock drivers door and the cap was locked?

 

If the car is locked, that includes the gas filler door. It will unlock with unlocking driver door.

 

Hello, and welcome.
All the answers from the members are correct. I've been through all of them. When you buy these cars you'll need to learn a few skills to overcome these obstacles, because the cars are actually very well made, with a few bugs that are simple to overcome. It will make you a better person once you learn.

#1 You'll need to solder two points on the back of a computer board found on the PASSENGER side fuse box. Look for the forum on mystery no start. this happened due to a QC issue while making the cars. It's very easy.

#2 Sounds like you locked the door. You will know when it is the alarm siren batteries because you will lock the doors, walk away and the fog lights with start flashing then alarm goes off. Wait about 3 weeks after than then a loud piercing sound comes from the siren and can only be stopped by pulling #10 fuse on the DRIVERS side fuse box. Then you will buy a stock $168 siren, take off the windshield wiper arms, and black cover, then replace the old one with new one and your done. It's not easy but it's fun, if you like to work on cars.

#3 You got that one

#4 This is usually the gas cap, but get the code reader. If it is nothing and it goes away, don't be surprised when it comes back on later. I am so used to mine being on that I would miss it if it was off. I don't have any issues with the car, runs perfectly, but the engine light is usually on. Had it for 11 years.

 

I really appreciate all of the help?

I had a guest over the weekend and took it for a spin yesterday before I read the forum. Had no issue with the gas cap but the passenger door was unlocked.

1. Twice the engine turned over and did not start util waiting a minute or so. I read the "Mystery No Start" thread and could not see the difference between the defective solder photo and the repaired solder photo. I do have a solder gun. Is that guy still doing the repairs via USPS and how much did/does he charge?

The metal part of the key stayed in the ignition along with the spring. Another small part fell on the floor. I was able to snap the fob back onto the key and continue to use the car. I need to figure out how to reassemble it today and maybe place a dab of super glue along the two halves to hold it together. I received a spare but cannot locate it. Ace Hardware informed me that Chrysler has not yet given them permission to make keys. They can make just the metal part if I want one to hide somewhere but it will only open the door.

2.Had no issue with the gas cap but the passenger door was unlocked.

3. A very strange design indeed! I guess that I will be forced to use the AC more often than I would like.

4. I was able to pay the $750 for registration, taxes and a 60 day tag. After I drive it for a while, I will take to an auto parts store and have the code read. A $30 gas cap sounds like an inexpensive solution! The light came on for the previous owner and he had the O2 sensor replaced.

Found this on a Cadillac XLR site...."It may take a while for the car to stop giving you the "Check Engine" light, even after you replace the gas cap. Remember, it is under the Federal Emissions warranty, so it's a freebie at the dealer.... unless you're over 50,000 miles (I think it's 50,000 miles). I received a new gas cap at my dealer, which was also defective. "

5. Is the Chrysler warranty 7 years or 70,000 miles?

6. Apparently, my alarm is not working. Does it chirp every time the doors are locked? That may be annoying for my neighbors.

 

7. The previous owner installed the "wood" inserts and replace the cupholder with a cubby. I do not regularly drink will driving but on those rare occasions I was hoping to locate an aftermarket cupholder. Any suggestions?

8. I sunshades readily available that will fit the Crossfires small windshield?

 

9. Is it possible to use my iPod without changing the stereo?

 

Rudy is a long time member here and has developed a device that will allow you to do this if your car has a OEM Nav stereo

iPod Control with Factory Nav Radio is Here!

 

if the tank has a hard time closing do this:


This really works I found it here in the forum. In a garage open the gas tank over night, especially if it gets cool at night. in the morning close the tank and take it for a short rise, Now try to open the tank and it should open very easy. Yes, it has a sensor in the tank, I can look up the number, but before I tried to change it, I did this trick and what vapor causing the tank cover to make it hard to open was no more! I know I thought it sounded crazy but it sure saved me money!

 

Hello and welcome spoiler,

I am still a new member here, but the best advice I can give you is follow the "Index of Crossfire Problems" link at the bottom of VALK's signature. Onehundred80 took the time to group many fixes/problems into categories with PDF links. I spent about 2 weeks reading all of them and making a list of "issues" that had to be addressed immediately.

The no start issue you are having - you may want to give a little more information. If the starter is cranking, but the engine is not catching that could be a different issue than not cranking at all (could be the Crankshaft Position Sensor). I would definitely repair the RCM as that is a very common problem.

Item 6: There is a link in the electrical section for the factory alarm battery change that you might need to utilize. To answer your question directly - your factory alarm will not chirp unless the siren module has been replaced/upgraded.

Item 8: I bought a custom sunshade off of Amazon that fits well:
For your check engine light, if it is on now - get it read free at an auto parts store (O'Reilly's does it here). Once you have the code(s) do a search on this forum and there is usually information and solutions. I hope it is just a loose gas cap, but it would be best to check and verify prior to replacing anything.

Best of luck!

 

Thank you for the suggestions!

I will out of town for the next two weeks (without the Crossfire) and will continue to check for updates.

 

It is a nuance of the car that when you exit the driver door, the passenger door, trunk, and gas cover will remain locked (and the center console glovebox in the roadster). I have to push the console unlock button or key fob unlock to open everything. If you think the gas cap lock is sticking, try a little WD-40.


You either have to wait for the codes to clear by driving the vehicle for a while, or buy a code reader and clear them yourself (or take it to Autozone, and ask them for a free scan and clear).

 

Had the code read today and this is what the guy wrote down...

P0341
Cam Position Sensor A
Circuit Range
1 Performance B1

 

The gas cap is only locked when the car is locked from the outside it remains unlocked when driving. Anyone in the car when it is locked from the outside will trigger the alarm if they open a door.

 

This P0341 code basically means that the powertrain control module (PCM) detected a problem with the camshaft signal. The camshaft position sensor (CPS) sends a specific signal to the PCM for Top Dead Center on the compression stroke as well as signals indicating the position of the cam sensor. This is accomplished through a reluctor wheel attached to the camshaft that passes by the cam sensor. Any time that the signal to the PCM is inconsistent with what the signal should be, this code is set. NOTE: this code can also be set by extended cranking periods. Symptoms The car will likely run with this code set, as it is often intermittent and also because the PCM can often operate the vehicle in "limp-in/limp-home" mode even with a cam sensor signal problem. There may be no noticeable symptoms other than: Poor fuel economy (if engine runs) Possible no start condition Causes A code P0341 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
Cam sensor wiring routed too close to spark plug wiring (causing interference) Poor wiring connection at cam sensor.
Poor wiring connection at PCM Bad cam sensor.
Damaged reluctor wheel.
Possible Solutions NOTE: In some cases this engine code is generated on vehicles that do not actually have a camshaft position sensor. In those cases it basically means the engine is misfiring badly due to faulty spark plugs, spark plug wires, and often coils. Often relacing the sensor fixes this code, but not necessarily. Therefore it's important to check the following: Check that the wiring isn't routed too close to any secondary ignition components (coil, spark plug wires, etc.)
Visually inspect the wiring at the sensor for any burn marks, discoloration indicative of melting or chafing
Visually inspect the cam sensor for damage
Visually inspect the reluctor wheel through the cam sensor port (if possible) for any missing teeth or any damage
If reluctor isn't visible from outside the engine, visual test can only be done by removing cam shaft or intake manifold (depending on engine design) If all checks out okay, then replace the sensor.

I do not know where the cam sensor is located. The car runs fine other than it not turning over or turning over and not starting on occasion but I plan on sending the board to Tighe soon.
I have not driven it for 100 miles since disconnecting the battery.

 

Front of the engine up by the valve cover on the passenger side. You can't miss it !