After reading the thread, it does appear to be a simple fix.

Pelican Parts wants $49 plus $10 shipping and the local dealership is asking $225 available out of Denver. He did not know the manufacturer.

Chrisifcti0n posted...
I ordered a generic sensor over a year ago. It was **** right out of the box, throwing CAT below efficiency threshold codes on all 4 banks (0432 0422 etc?). I replaced with a Bosch.

13 months later, I have the camshaft sensor code again. I know better, so I order a Bosch again.

Install.. 40 miles later, I have the 4 below efficiency codes AGAIN.

Can I seriously have dealt with 4 bad sensors already? The last one was good for about 25,000 miles. This one.. 40?

 

98k miles on my 04 6 spd and I have not had to change a sensor yet, BUT I have new sensors and tools to change them in a box in the back.

 

Finally replaced the Camshaft Rotation Sensor, started the engine and no Check Engine Light! I did manage to break off a couple of brittle locking tabs on the pigtail. Hopefully that will not be an issue.

I would like to thank everyone for their suggestions!

 

Failed the emissions test this morning. Had only driven maybe 40-50 miles since replacing CRS. Engine was hot. Readiness Monitors need to be set by the Drive Cycle. Evaporative and Air Systems Not Ready.

Could not find any info in the owners manual concerning Drive Cycle.

Found on Just Answer Chrysler...Below is the specific drive cycle to perform to set the monitors to ready status. It must be performed as described with no variations. Make sure the battery is reading at least 12.89Volts. A weak battery will cause the monitors to not set:

Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
Start cold (below 86°F /30°C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes. (I need to have the engine cooled down while sitting on the side of a road that allows 40-55 speed limit?)
Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
Decelerate without using the brake [or the clutch!] by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.

May need to repeat.

Read more: 2005 Chrysler Crossfire: the SMOG test..EGR..secondary air..air pump

Found these instructions on another thread...

Since you don't have much time, follow this:

The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another).
NOTE: The ignition key must not be on prior to the cold start otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.
1. As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump and EVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes. OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.

Also saw a suggestion of reading Chapter 25, pages 25-39 of the service manual. It mentioned that downloads are free. I could not locate while searching.

I could try both instructions but still do not know how I can accelerate to 45-55 from a dead stop in my residential driveway.

 

If you get a "Scangauge II" OBDII reader, it will show status of codes and tests, and say when "READY" or "Not READY" to pass tests. If it is not ready, you can input a code and look up the results and see which test is not complete yet.
The 02 tests, and the evap tests can take several warm up driving cycles to complete, typically more than 1 day.
On my 2002 T&C Van, the instant I noticed a "READY" on the display, I drove straight to an inspection station. It passed, then the light came back on the next day! (It was cracked vacuum hoses under the van for the evap system. I wish people would quit with the "Its the gas cap" crap)

 

Drove 160 miles over the weekend Yesterday, started the engine in my driveway and idled in park for 2 1/2 minutes and drove 7 miles out to the interstate and followed the rest of the Drive Cycle reset instructions. 30 minutes later it passed the emissions test but I cannot help but wonder if it passed due to regular driving or the by attempting to reset the Drive Cycle.

Is the procedure only necessary if an emissions test/registration deadline is looming?

Thanks for all of the help!