i was driving to the store, and going slow through a light then i got on it a little to pull away some teenagers blasting their stereo, and then i had to slow down because my turn was coming up. once the car infront of me moved, i noticed my car wasn't running. i started it, and it died as soon as i let the clutch out two more times. the next time i gave it some gas and eased off the clutch and it worked enough to get me into the parking lot. after letting it sit for a while, the problem was still there. it fires right up, then hesitates badly when you give it the gas. at first i had a hard time keeping it running, but i disconnected the battery, which didn't do much, and revved it several times. the revving seems to have helped it, and i can drive the car if i ease on the gas very slowly. i made it home, but its not running well enough to drive any more.


i don't have an engine light on, and i have 200miles through my last fill up, so i don't think its bad gas.
i checked the vacume line going to the intake and it seems good. i'm thinking i may have a fuel issue the way the car acts with no service lights coming on. my plans are to get a fuel filter tomorrow and try that first. any suggestions are very welcome.

worst part is i passed 36k miles over the weekend. i do have extended warrenty, but i'm unsure how much it covers and i forgot where i put my paper work. i'm hoping a simple fix with no warrenty headaches.

 

Fuel filter sounds like a good first step!

 

Or Fuel Pump-

Happened in my truck twice

 

Have you checked for dog food in the exhaust?

 

please tell me you didn't experience that?

my first thought was the fuel pump, but it got better once i revved it up a few times some i'm thinking filter first. if its fuel pump, dealer can deal with it. i'm not dropping my tank or paying for that part.

 

The first thing I'd try is the throttle reset procedure.

1. turn key to "on" (not start)
2. push the gas pedal to the floor and hold it there
3. wait 20 seconds then turn the key off
4. wait 20 more seconds and let off the gas pedal.
5. wait for at least 2 minutes for the drive-by-wire throttle to do it's reset procedure.

I had a similar problem before......if I got in the gas normally, it felt like the car was going to stall, if I went really slow on the pedal all was fine. Did the reset procedure and all was right in the world again.

Might work, might not..........but at least it's free!

 

Turn your key to the on position, not the start position, listen for the fuel pump to come on and prime the system on Cold Start maybe Relay Control Module acting up.
But I agree throttle reset and possibly fuel filter replacement a good start.

Just my Dos Centavos

 

I didn't, but fireamx did

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...light=dog+food

 

resetting the throttle didn't do anything for me. i couldn't find any fuel filters locally, so i just dropped the car off at the dealer. they promissed not to do any work to the car with out contacting me first so if thats it, i'll weigh the cost of letting them fix it, or doing it myself.

 

Let us know how it turns out!!

 

i have an update. dealer said the mass air flow sensor, and electrical issues with the throtle body. idk how both of these were an issue at once when the car ran perfect until it broke down. also word of advise. they are only going to fix the car if everything is in perfect condition. i had broken off the finger clips on the elbow at the throtle body to slant it over to run my own cold air intake, and i had started to remove the grill over the maf, but decided not to after i cut 3 points of connection around the grill. they are making me pay for these peices new inorder to do the warrenty work on my car because its physical damage. total cost is $300 for these two peices, and $100 for the deductilble. i argued with them that those damages have nothing to do with function and they won't go for it. i then told her that i need the car fixed so do what you need to and i'll keep everything you pull from the car!

 

i was able to get to the dealer before they closed last night to talk face to face with them. the service tech was already gone though. looks like their main issue is the broken peices on the maf housing. she slipped up and told me a new one was about $120. i then asked her if thats the case, why the $300 bill over whats being covered on the warrentied items? she said it look like labor charges for replacing the maf housing.............

WHAT! i said. i told her i've been around automotive repair most my life and i'm pretty familure with whats going on. there is no way to replace the maf without taking out the housing and pulling the sensor out, then reinstalling the new one. its the same amount of work to install it back with a new housing.

anyways, i told her i'll just call back monday and talk to the tech because of the possibility of missing communication. i didn't want to put my frustration on her, not her fault.


anybody in houston area have a needwings intake and can give up their stock plastic housing and elbow? this would help me out a great deal.

 

Interesting simply because from everything I've read about MAF problems they usually don't go bad w/o giving you "warnings" first.....crappy idle, loss of power, etc.
From the dealer's perspective though, as soon as they saw that you may have been farting around with the throttle body you were toast. Do they have their labor fees posted somewhere? If not, call them before you stop by again & ask how much an hour's time is worth. Then when you go back at least you'll be armed with the knowledge or whether or not they're trying to squeeze more out of you.

 

new update.

i finially talked to the guy working on the car. problem is maf went out and also shorted the throtlebody electronics. thats covered under warrenty. also, there is a crack on the intake elbow where the vacume line goes in. they are charging me he says $160 for the part, and $140 for labor. i asked why labor on a simple part and he said its becuase there is a oil seperator on that plastic body that he has to pull off and build onto the new unit. does this sound right? i don't have my car so i can't look at one. i seem to remember its only a mount for the vacume line with a straight through hole.

also note that friday when i taked to the service rep, she had told me the replacement part was around $120. seems like he's makeing up for some diognostic time to me.