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i was just looking over the pump to see if i saw anything not quite right and saw that this ground kind of looked a little corroded. I disconnected it and cleaned up the connection and for the last week ive had no trouble codes.

maybe it'll work for other people's cars or maybe not it only takes about 5 minutes though.

please let me know if it helps

 

What pump is this for?

 

This pump recirculates the exhaust gas for emissions...i think its similiar to an EGR valve. Please correct me if i'm wrong. I also have a 2000 Land Rover discovery that has one of these....pump just went bad and i had to replace it. Very easy to do but not cheap. Pump for it was $260.00 from dealer .

 

well for the past month, my check engine light has been going on and off. after doing a free diagonstic at Advance, i got the p0410 code. To people who have already been in this position: is the pump the only thing that can be malfunctioning? Must it be replaced? If so, how much did you pay? I'm going to try this corrosion cleaning b/c mine looks like this pic. Is it bad for me to be driving while i'm in this situation? the car is driving normally.

 

it won't hurt at all to drive the car with the p0410 code. there are even people that have just taken it off and used the block off plates from tvt design's website although I'm assuming they have that code all the time. The pump sensor works off of the resistance/ohms to tell whether it's running correctly or not. that's why I'm assuming that the problem in most of the cars lies in that corrosion. I'm not really sure what to use to stop the corrision and maybe prevent this code from being thrown at all since anything that is put on it would change the ohm readouts the computer gets. hopefully some great minds can come up with a solution.


and hopefully if anyone else has tried this corrosion control and it worked for them maybe we can get some feedback from them and maybe even make this a sticky since this is a fairly all Crossfire related problem.

 

That is the AIR system pump and it does just what it's name implies, pumping air into the exhaust stream to get the primary catalytic converters warmed up faster. Other than a light, there is nothing bad going to happen. Another thing I was going to mention in 240's block off plate for sale thread is that you can measure the resistance and put a giant power resistor in there to keep the light from coming on. I never got that far with my car so I couldn't tell you what size/rating/resistance needed. Hope this helps.

 

I still get this code and disconnect the battery for 20 minutes to reset it. Comes back on in a few days. I took it to the dealership while under warranty and they replaced the bank 2 o2 sensors, but it didn't fix the problem. I'll try cleaning the part in your photo to see if it helps.

 

my code came back a few days ago and I recleaned it and today decided to put a little dielectric grease(same stuff you put on your spark plugconnections) on it I'll update if this helps it last any longer or not, but as soon as I cleaned the contacts up a little the check engine light went away again.

 

Thanks for the picture and info gents. I too get this code all the time. It comes and goes on its own sometimes but usually I clear it with my code reader. I'll try and clean the conection as my local dodge dealer told me a new pump was 900 dollars.

 

yeah well I'd keep the 900 bucks because it will not affect the engine one way or another.

 

Yes I figured that was so. I'll clean it anyway just for laughs and see if it works, couldn't hurt. It only takes 10 seconds to clear it with the reader and I'm good for a couple of weeks. Thanks though for the advice.

 

Hi,
I've had my crossfire for a few months now and I was also getting the p0410 error. From the manuals (available on this site) I figured it was the control module that was at fault. Turns out the module has 5 PCB mounted relays in it (this is covered in other threads) one of which provides the feed for the pump when told to do so. Might be worth checking this out?
If it does turn out to be the problem you'll have to dig out a soldering iron and source a 'euro' spec (NOT U.S. - wrong pin spacing) automotive 12v 40A relay as the modules relays are not a simple plug-in type. Might pe a pain but it's a lot cheaper than buying a new module.

Good luck

SteveB

 

To All,

I had this problem....and had it fixed !

There are 6 components in the circuit that can cause the PO410 error code.

The Dealer replaced 3 of the six....one at a time...before they got it right.

Replaced the :

Pump Itself - did not solve the problem
Relay control board - did not solve the problem
Check Valve - SOLVED The PROBLEM...and its the cheapest component to replace...and the easiest.
As we all know...the Dealers can not troubleshoot anything...I got frustrated with the dealer...looked at the schematic of the circuit...and asked them to replace the valve!!

Look in the manual for the "Air pump injection system" section which describes it all.

I would definitely replace the check valve first....it's a mechinical valve that goes bad...and it takes "2 minutes" to replace it!!!"

Good luck to all....

Ben

 

I'm dealing with the p0410 code as well. Thought I had it solved, but I don't. Where is the check valve located at ?

 

The little BLUE check valve #12 in the illustration is a known issue with the Secondary air injection system. It is prone to sticking closed. This check valve is between the vacuum control solenoid and the diverter valves which allow fresh air to flow to the exhaust. When this valve is stuck it can not open the diverters. This sets the P0410 code, due to the O2 sensors not seeing a change from the fresh air being injected. Hope this helps.

Part #05096374AA. Right (passenger) front corner of the engine, under the engine cover. Bright Blue valve in the vacuum hose. If you change it yourself pay close attention to the position of the arrow (molded into the plastic) it indicates direction of flow.

Hope this helps....See diagram below...

BRappaport

 

To stop the corrosion, clean the contact points, tighten up the screw/nut and put some high temp. grease, Vaseline or oil on it.

 

Two weeks ago I replaced the little blue check valve referred to in several of the past posts. I purchased it at the local MB dealer which was a pain because they said that they couldn't cross reference part numbers. Finally he found the right part due to numerous part number changes. Anyway after a 2400 mile run to Mobile, Al. then to Fayetteville, NC. and the back to Ind. No mil light problem, possible cured for 23 bucks and 5 minutes time. Oh the light came on one time right after I started it the first time but after a quick reset all was well. I believe that this is the new MB part # A 002 140 84 60. And I was getting about 29 mpg overall running on the interstate 73 -74 mph when speed limit was 70.

 

I have the same code, the dealer I got the car from didnt offer an extended warranty, and the 90 day one the do offer doesnt cover electrical issues, but they told me it was some relay box that is like 400 dollars, so I am going to check this connection mentioned above, and let you all know how that works out.
Dustin

 

Dustin - If that does turn out to be your problem I price shop for parts, dealers are not known to have the best prices. Especially when you get into that price range.

 

Has anyone had the code come up along with the 40 amp fuse to the pump blow as well?

Seems this problem is mainly cause by either the check valve, relay, or pump itself. I just hate to spend money doing trial by elimination.