Here are the items that typically require replacement as these cars are approaching 20 years old and historic maintenance may not be known. When searching for parts use 2003 Mercedes SLK320...they aren't expensive and not difficult to replace.

1) RCM will need to be pulled and sent to https://www.facebook.com/groups/202200410510109/user/1232522066/?__cft__%5b0%5d=AZV0GVsBXYtWNsybsRm8ZuDimYeRdWSqp90MKbqheuBMvUokczvTH_HLFze-KwUYyF1LaNfYcM8McNmQC2Dnvpn9k8BY0f2GwBaOvTJhrSt6nyirLtm5-wC9NojpkfbdzGdTCjBeM5pH2Vbn1oqN5Ivb&__tn__=R%5d-R (tighed1@hotmail.com), the RCM doctor will test all the relays and replace as well as his "horny" fix then buy a new backup RCM

2) Replace the crankshaft position sensor with a Bosch unit only https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...sor-0031532828 . This sensor will go out and the car will stop running...let the car cool down. An option is to pour ambient temperature water on the CPS (The CPS mounts in the tunnel portion of the engine block where it meets the bell housing so you are not pouring water directly on the engine block but pouring the water straight on the CPS) on it to cool it down so that the car will start. Youtube showing the replacement

3) Replace the idler pully, tensioner, and serpentine belt (FCP Euro has a bundle for these https://www.fcpeuro.com/.../mercedes...erpentine-belt

4) Flush/replace all fluids

5) The sticky key repair depending on the date of manufacture of the 2004 to mid-year 2006. I believe you're good if manufactured after August 2006...you can find the fix in from the Files here https://www.facebook.com/groups/chryslercrossfiretechrescue/permalink/1408006986382248

6) Check the AC blower motor testing the speed levels and the climate control directions as the blower motor and resistor go bad (they were on mine when I bought it a year ago) https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...209342#fitment and Youtube showing the process

7) Check the antifreeze coolant tank at the tube entering the tank as this is known to break (mine was and I replaced with a new tank from FCPEuro https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...mer-1705000349

8) Check the idiot lights that may be active with the car started and look for the low tire light. This is the TPMS sensors where the batteries have outlived their live span. You don't need this as it is an idiot light only. In the Files is the direction to disconnect the light (easy to do I did it when I bought my Crossfire) Youtube video on how to do this

9) The siren located under the front windshield cowling batteries corrode causing a battery drain. Either disconnect, remove or replace with new siren with a chirp. Here is a very good write up on accessing, disconnecting and removing or replacing the siren https://www.facebook.com/groups/202200410510109/permalink/1034931033903705

10) Clear all the drain holes especially the 2 located under the windshield cowling. They get plugged and there will be water on the floor

11) Check valve cover gaskets for leaking oil

12) Roadsters with an original top may have or encounter the rear window separation.

13) Coup interior headliner is known to separate

That's all I can think of at this time. These are very reliable sports cars where the MB M112 3.2L V-6 is a strong and motor as is the 722.6 5 speed auto transmission and the 6 speed manual.

 

I appreciate your post! Would you mind editing it to include the links you're referring to? All I see is "Facebook Post" where the links should be. Thanks!

 

I would add one more item to the list: Auxiliary battery

https://www.youcanic.com/mercedes-be...y-replacement/

The warning of a dying backup battery is the temperature & time lights on the instrument cluster will stay lit.

$45 on Amazon or $121 for original part

 

WRONG model ! Crossfire is of the R170 Mercedes family; the Crossfire has no auxiliary battery.

 

I thought the Cross Fire has no backup battery too even my neighbor told me that is likely the problem to the battery drain - temperature and time lights stay lit on the instrument cluster.

I disconnected the battery and noticed the temperature and time lights blink every 15 seconds with the main battery disconnected.

I did a little more research and realized I cannot disconnect the main battery with a dying backup battery. If the SKREEM got no juice from either battery, you will end up with a lot more problems than battery drain.


I believe the Cross Fire is a 2003 SLK 320 with a better looking skin from Chrysler.

 

THERE IS NO BACKUP BATTERY SYSTEM (MB ECO SYSTEM) IN THE CROSSFIRE SERIES VEHICLES. If you have one in yours, the car has been modified.


.

 

I will post pictures of the auxiliary battery when I have time to mess around with it.

Anyway, it's located in the trunk which is accessible from behind the the driver seat. You can move the seat all the way forward, then you can pull the flap to take a look of the battery.

 

Please make sure you have an identifiable CROSSFIRE part in the picture showing this 'battery' installed in a crossfire car. I say again, there is no aux battery installed in the crossfire series vehicles. If you have one in your crossfire, it is aftermarket (installed by someone other than MB in a MB plant). Also, there is NO WAY either seat forward allows access to the hatch area (what your calling the trunk). The only part I know of behind the 2 seats under a flap (carpet), is the sub-woofers).


.

 

I don't think he has a Crossfire if he can move the seat up to open the flap in the trunk. Behind the seats in a Crossfire is the fuel tank. I would like to see a photo of his "Crossfire" and what he is talking about.

 

You say you should change things, how are you to know they were not changed the week before you purchased the car. Check things for sure but going overboard can be a waste of money.
I am not sure you have a grip on the variables to be found in each car.

 

Well, you are correct!! I don't have an auxiliary battery behind the seat which I was almost 100% certain that it must be there - I bought the battery before removing the phantom one which I thought I had. I should have attach a picture of my face to this post when I lift up the carpet under the sub-woofers.

However, I'm certain there must be an auxiliary battery somewhere in the car because the temperature and time lights on the instrument cluster blink every 15 seconds after I disconnected the battery. I guess I will pull the fuse to prevent battery drain until I figure this one out.

 

any idea where to get these parts:
idler pully, tensioner, and serpentine belt, the link does not show anymore

 

https://www.needswings.com/

 

AutoHausAZ, FCPEuro, Pelican Parts etc. Search for parts for a 2001 to 2004 SLK 320.

 

Yes, you have a Mercedese.

 

I just bought another Crossfire, 2005 Sapphire Silver Blue manual shift roadster with 35K on the clock.

I can see doing preventative things to a high mileage car, but which mods/repairs should be done due to age, not miles.

For example should I replace the idler pulley and belt on a 35K car or can it wait till I get more miles on the car. The key works fine so does it need a sticky key fix. You get the idea.

Basically my question is this. If the car runs and behaves perfectly which mods/repairs should be done at this time only due to it being 18 years old.

 

Belts, fluids, possibly tires and lubrication.

 

The OP stated in two of the three posts he has made that he has a MB shop he uses. Now he is telling us what to do?
Mouser is explaining something which does not exist, he has posted only a few times before about the same number he has made in this thread.
BLCR is saying his key works fine so there is no reason to fix it, either it has been done before or he has this fault to rear it’s ugly head in the future.
I think we have a spill over from Face Book.
I do not bother to answer questions very often these days, it’s all been done before.
I pointed out the weaknesses of the smaller SC pulleys, they were ignored. Not long after they started to grenade and still people purchased them. These were mainly made to make a fast buck and when they had to be replaced the makers started to quit making them. Even the OEM pulley will fail as the springs get weakened by use, but that will be long after the quick buck ones have all failed.

 

I bought my beautiful unwanted bastard 04 in 2006. Currently, all fluids are original except engine oil and coolant with 13K on the clock.

Besides the headliner, battery and tires, the RCM is the only part I had to replace.


I had a very minor transmission fluid leak near the radiator, but it fixed itself. I guess as long as I don't hit a big pothole, it would be a permanent fix.

Other the battery drains from the lights on the instrument cluster now; I really don't have any problems with the car.

The cigarette lighter socket doesn't work too. I may try to replace the socket later on as per this video:

Bing Videos

 

ZERACER do you have any idea at what mileage the RCM, crank shaft position sensor and belt tensioner have been failing. The crankshaft sensor is a no brainier because its a cheep fix and I thought about getting an RCM just to have on hand but unless it was poorly made or designed I have seen belt tensioners last for years. My car has 45K on it and has always been garaged. All of the exterior rubber looks new and is soft so there hasn't been a lot of ozone, UV or prolonged hot or cold temps subjected to the car. The belt looks new also with no cracks or drying out but I might replace it just in case. Also I drove the car 500 miles home right after buying it with no issues. Anyway just looking for an opinion here.