Had a alignment done on my limited today at the local Firestone. They ended up with this as the finial spec:


Left Front: -1.3 camber, 4.7 caster, .15 toe. Right Front: -1.3 camber, 4.7 caster, .17 toe.
Left Rear: -1.6 camber, .24 toe. Right Rear: -1.5 camber, -.42 toe

Obviously the rear right is messed up. They said they maxed out the adjustment on it and they presume it was bumped on that side at one time to throw it that far out. My question to the group is: What can I do to fix it without sticking a fortune into it. I want to replace my tires this fall, but I dont want them all chewed up do to a messed up alignment.

 

I am not sure about the fix, but it may be your left rear that is the most wrong. Front tires on rear drive cars tow in because when the chassis pushes the front tires froward it will take all the play out of the steering linkage and move toward neutral (straight ahead). Front drive (fwd) is just the opposite. The tiress are pulling the chassis so you start with tow out instead of tow in. An independant rear wheel drive (IRS), woulld be aligned like a front drive because the drive wheels are pulling the chassis along. I think you should have tow out on your rear but a negative .42 sounds way excessive. Please keep us posted on what you have to do. I would look for a frame and alignment shop rather than just an alignment shop.

 

I used a tape to measure the relative toe between both rear tires and got it to where I like it after pulling the differential again for the wavetec installation.

Seems that the toe should be a balance between one side AND the other, Id walk the specks to other shops to have then weigh in on their opinion to see. Wont cost any thing to ask, and you can sample the wisdom of several.

Toe is the forward angle of the tires- in or out. I look at it as the angle of the pair of tires and the relationship to the chassis, so that the thrust is straight ahead. This will keep the car going forward and not crab like down the road. You can follow your car on a straight road to see how the chassis points "forward" as you sight along the side - carefully.

Keep us informed, Woody

 

I suspect the car was hit on that side before I bought it causing this issue. Does anyone make an adjustable link to replace that bar? The eccentric bolt does not have enough travel to make it happen.

 

A custom toe link with more adjustment would do the trick I assume. I would love to say contact MikeR

I know some people have made their own, and TVT had some way back when they existed. You would have to do some searching but I assume you could find a set or someone to make them (not sure if speedy Benz has them) If I remember they are basically the same setup as the camber arms just shorter/smaller. I'm guessing a couple hundred max for the set which compared to rear tire prices is not much.

 

The custom toe link would do the trick for sure... MikeR was the only one on the forum that I found that had previously made it. If anyone else knows of another source for one please let me know.

 

K-Mac makes a front kit for adjusting the Camber and Caster...

K-MAC suspension kits to suit Chrysler

 

Quick update. Took the car back to the dealer I purchased it from in Feb 2011. They sold it to me as an accident free car, and with the rear alignment issue that's not believable. They were unable to align the car due to lack of proper tools and weights they said, so they are shipping it the the chrysler dealer to be done. I've already taken it to two alignment shops already, and they both said the alignment cant be fixed without bending parts. I am hoping the dealer that sold me the car will follow thru on getting this resolved and possibly comp me for over paying for a car that was wrecked vs what I paid for the car as an accident free car. Next week will tell... for now I am driving a Cadiliac CTX as a loaner.