I found this article / instructions specific to bleeding the brakes on a Crossfire. I thought I would share it for those interested.


https://howtune.com/articles/177-ble...sler-crossfire

 

NOTE ! If you install 'speed-bleeders', you can still follow the above instructions, except you can do the job by yourself.

 

I tend to disagree with the statement that says to leave some fluid in the reservoir, if I am changing the fluid I want to change it all and not leave some behind to mix with the new fluid. I say drain it all and flush the lines completely with new fluid all the way from the reservoir calipers just like you would if you replaced the master cylinder.
The SRT has two different sized hexes on the bleeder screws on the OEM calipers, 8 and 9mm if I recall.

 

And I do not disagree with that, by all means remove ALL the old fluid from the reservoir.
I was just saying this can be a one person job with speed-bleeders.

 

Sorry, I forgot to add my agreement with the addition of the speed-bleeders.
I cannot see how they can say it is OK to leave some old fluid in the system, it could filled with moisture and if it's dark who knows how old or contaminated it is.
Next time I change I'll pick a fluid that is quite different in color to what is in there now.

 

Yes, I changed mine out with Ate Super Blue Racing DOT4 fluid.
When it changed from dirty brown to blue, I knew I was though.

 

I think the only reason they are saying it is so air isn't introduced into the lines. All the old fluid will eventually be evacuated regardless of if you leave a little in the reservoir so air doesn't get in. Eventually, as you keep filling it with new fluid, all the old fluid will be bleed through the lines.

 

If the reservoir has fluid in it the new stuff will mix with the old and it will take a lot of fluid to reduce the blended fluids to next to no old fluid. With my way the air will come out in front of the new fluid if you keep pumping and do not let the bubbles of air slowly climb to the top again.

 

If you are changing over to a high performance fluid, you have to drain it all out... I would change lines as well. I like to gravity drain everything over night. I fill and bleed the system with a friend the old fashion way.... this insures all the air is out... with a power bleeder, you better have everything just right or you waste expensive fluid... I can yell at my friend....when to stop....lol...

 

I did change to SS lines when I flushed the system.

 

Me too, great minds think alike.

 

I also removed all the calipers front and rear, disassembled them, glass bead blasted them, rebuilt them with all new seals, painted with 4 coats of high temp ceramic paint and installed speed bleeders on all 4.

 

Good man.... I did too, but no speed bleeders....

 

What are the SS Lines?


I'm having mine done tomorrow at the stealership. No time to do it myself now and it's only a brake fluid flush .........right? How bad can they screw that up? Don't answer that please.


Guys, as far at the fluid.....it just needs to be DOT4 ... correct?

 

SS = Stainless Steel brake lines, and DOT 4 is the correct fluid for the brakes and clutch. Thanks for posting the article.

 

Just had them bleed and new fluid flushed in this morning. Peddle travel is similar to what it was before I had it flushed but the brakes don't seem to fade like they did before the flush, so I'm expecting it was indeed a little air that had gotten in the lines while sitting. I'm still used to driving my G8 which has brake engagement almost as soon as you touch them. I'm pretty sure most of my concern was just the difference between driving one car over tha other. That being said, it was beyond time to change the fluic in the Crossfire. It was still clean, full etc but it was 11 years old. Hopefully good to go for many years to conme now. I still only have 33K miles on her, but new fluids do provide a sense of more confidence.

 

Even though I don't put a ton of miles on the car, I like to do an oil change and brake flush each spring. It doesn't take long and gives me peace of mind. I also check the coolant, tranny, rear end, tire pressures, etc. It's been good to me and I like to return the favor.

 

For what it's worth, I changed out the ATE Super Blue fluid back to the Mercedes fluid last weekend. The brake feels much better. More solid, less peddle travel.


I have the SS speed bleeders too, like'm a lot.

 

May do the same. I have never been happy with the ATE Blue, I keep bleeding brakes and the pedal stays soft even with SS lines.

 

Having the same trouble with the N/A we are working on. But it is improving. Isn't the same peddle as mine though. Might just be the nature of some of them. Master seems to be fine. Definitely needed new fluid and bled though.