I ran across this online "HOW TO" and thought some of you might like to take a look...

A version of this article appeared in Popular Hot Rodding, February 2000.

PREPPING NEW BRAKES FOR PERFORMANCE DRIVING

After you’ve installed your brake kit the natural response may be to head out to the middle of nowhere and stomp on the brake pedal to feel the difference it’s made. We’d suggest that you not do this, at least for a little while. The proper break-in procedure for pads and rotors (called rotor seasoning and pad bedding) is essential to brake function and longevity. Like breaking in a new engine, a definite series of actions should be taken for optimum performance.

Seasoning Brake Rotors

Seasoning the brake rotors removes the machine oils from the surface of the rotor and (like a camshaft break-in) it establishes a wear pattern between the new pads and rotors. This procedure also serves to relieve the internal stresses of the material. Once relieved, the rotor is ready to accept the heat generated by the bedding pads. New rotors need to be heated gradually to "race" temperature before any planned severe use. A light vibration under braking is usually an indication that the rotors were heated too quickly. This minor warpage may have to be cured by having the rotors turned.

After brake kit installation, your vehicle should be treated to five or six days of gentle driving. The new brakes should be used lightly with no performance testing or heavy usage. After five or six days of gentle driving, find a safe place where the brakes can be brought up to temperature. Perform four consecutive stops from 60 mph to 15 mph at about 50% maximum stopping force. Next, drive for 5 continuous minutes at freeway speeds and allow the rotors to cool. Then perform four medium-effort stops from 60 mph to 15 mph with approximately 75% stopping force. Once this procedure is complete, drive at freeway speeds for about 10 minutes with little or no braking and allow the rotors to cool. Park the car and allow the brakes to cool overnight.

The next day, warm the brakes to full operating temperature and perform four more 50% effort stops, followed by a 5-minute freeway cool down. Then perform four more 75% effort stops, followed by a 10 minute cool down drive. Then, perform six hard-effort stops from 60 mph to 15 mph, taking care not to lock up the wheels. Follow this with another 10-minute freeway cool down. Again, allow the car to sit overnight and the rotors to cool to ambient air temperature.

Bedding Brake Pads

Once the rotors have been seasoned, the pads can be bedded. The friction material in semi-metallic brake pads is held together with an organic binder which is usually some sort of phenolic material. As the pads get hot, the binder boils and burns from the top surface of the pad. Once this burning (or "bedding") has taken place, the friction material can make proper contact with the rotor. Some manufacturers of carbon metallic brake pads label their products as “pre-burnished.” Experience has proven that these pads respond very well to the bedding procedure. Bedding establishes a wear pattern between the rotor and pad as the pad deposits a fine layer of carbon on the rotor. This layer of carbon is necessary for the brakes to perform at peek efficiency. Never bed pads on rotors that have not first been seasoned, as outlined above.

To properly bed new pads of any type, perform two light to medium stops from 65 mph to 10 mph. This will bring the rotors up to temperature. Then, perform two back-to-back heavy stops from 65 mph to 10mph at a point just prior to wheel lockup or ABS actuation. Drive for 10 minutes to allow the brakes to cool, then perform three light stops in succession. Finally, perform eight heavy stops in succession from 65 mph to 10 mph. Again, push the brakes as hard as possible without achieving wheel lockup or ABS actuation. Finish the bedding procedure by driving another 10 minutes, allowing the brakes to cool. Due to the nature of bedding and the differences between semi-metallic and carbon metallic brake pads, it is not recommended to switch from the carbon pads to the semi-metallic units. Upgrading to carbon metallic pad will require bedding to establish the proper carbon layer on the rotor, but if you must use semi-metallic pads, you will need to wear through this carbon layer. The semi-metallic pads will not grip well at all until this layer is removed.