Need one each of these items:

Part Number: 05140962AA
Description: CABLE, Tonneau Side Flap, Cable

Part Number: 05140965AA
Description: RETAINER, Side Flap, Cable

Source: Crossfire Roof Components Parts List, Tonneau Cover and Side Flaps 27 Body, Figure SZH-1120

Very much appreciate any help given to help me find one of these!

 

I spoke with CABLE. Tonneau Side Flap. # 05140962AA
they say they are on back order and have no timeline.
All the below parts yards list the hydraulic pump, so they must have a roadster body. Give them a call.
( another idea is to remove the cable and go to a bicycle repair shop ....

 

Thanks for the "instant" response! I will try contacting those parts yards. I did discover one additional part in the 2005 catalog (I was mistakenly using the 2006 catalog) that I might need, but it is evidently very small and not complicated (Retainer Clip) as it only lists for less than $4.

 

Odds are the bicycle repair shop can make you one very reasonably.
I spoke with a local bike shop, and he can supply a stainless cable 67" long for $5, and put the ends on it.
You would re-use the housing. I have no idea if 67" is long enough - do you ?
I would certainly think so.

 

I don't know about the length, but 67" sounds likely to be sufficient. I need to take out the old one and have a look.

 

This solution has been done before here. It works and saves money.
PS
Some places have this cable in bulk on spools.

 

I removed the damaged cable and took some pics and measurements. I thought it might be worthwhile to document this cable. The cable did not separate - it pulled out of the forward end fitting.

The cable is pretty close to 63 1/8 inches long (which includes the fittings permanently attached to the ends). This about 160.5 cm. Clearly, the sleeve must be placed on the cable before the final fitting is clamped on.




The last photo shows the flap area mounting configuration, which looks like it could be adjusted for a shorter cable. Any experts agree? If this is the case, perhaps my easiest and simplest option would be to fix the existing cable by clipping off the very short damaged end and then attaching a new (if I can find a new) fitting or possibly reuse the existing one. Any thoughts?

 

You could perhaps have a jeweler silver solder the end back on ?

 

Silver solder would require the cable to be heated to red hot if you are talking about solver brazing. Otherwise a soft solder could be used if done properly. Not electronic solder but a harder higher heat leaded solder.
We used to repair our brake cables on our ten speeds like this. Lots of us died when they failed though. LOL

These cable systems do not require dead accuracy on the length, it is the distance from the end of the cable to the covering sheath and its attachment that makes it all work right.

Cable length is not too critical on these systems, it is the distance between the cable end and the clamp that matters, there is usually an adjustment to allow for cable stretch and initial set up.

 

I defer to the in house expert on metallurgical questions.....

 

I just think you do not want to ruin the hardness of the cable too much. These were probably swaged initially.

 

And you sir, are most likely correct.

 

Probably good news: I took the cable and loose end fitting to my friendly bicycle shop (per earlier alla_xfire suggestion!). We drilled out the bits of cable in the fitting, clipped off a very small bit of the cable end, inserted the end into the fitting and crimped the fitting. It looks sound. Tomorrow I will install it and adjust for the very slightly shortened length and report back.

EDIT: Well, unfortunately, the fix failed in the same manner as before, by pulling out of the end fitting. Back to the drawing board.

 

Took the cable to a sailboat rigging specialty shop here in Miami (which I used during my boating days) and they came up with a solution - a swaged cable end terminal. We used the smallest "Aircraft Eye" type (wire size 3/32") shown in this link:

Standing Rigging - Marine Eye, Aircraft Eyes, Sailmaker Eye

Before swageing, we removed (with a torch, carefully so as not to overheat the wire) the coating, then coated the wire end with red threadlock and diamond dust. Total cost = $12.00.

I have cycled the top manually several times and the cable seems to be holding up ok. Now I can get back to finishing up the convertible top hydraulic system project.

 

Well, I was close with that bicycle shop idea.
Glad you got it figured out.

 

Long story short, I ended up having to buy a complete convertible top with all its framework from a salvage yard. This because I needed a new "bow molding" (the rubber molding that goes around the back "bow" of the convertible top) and that part is no longer available from Chrysler. So I ended up with lots of top parts available . . . hydraulic cylinders, cables latch parts etc and TWO of the OEM tonneau cover flap cables. ONE complete cable with fittings is $50.00 delivered to your door. Contact me directly at RedDogNumber1@aol.com if you need one. I only have two . . . THANKS, Bob Davis

 

I was able to repair my cable with a repurposed swage end fitting from a sailboat rigging shop. I think that you could make a deal on all the hydraulic cylinders with Klaus Witte of Top Hydraulics klaus@tophydraulicsinc.com. His company does excellent work rebuilding hydraulic cylinders and he was looking for cores to seed a reman program. I will drop him an email to let him know you might gave a set of seven for sale.

 

Thanks . . . Actually I thought of contacting Klaus shortly after making this post. He was eager to buy all 7 cylinders and the hydraulic lines and offered me what I thought was a very fair price. I just shipped everything out to him today. Best regards, . . .

 

Could you share the main link to access the part yards below? I have a few parts that I need to find and was having trouble locating a place to buy them.

Thanks

 

the web site is Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market