~ product used: por15

here are pics of my repair:

used metal ready (applied with a hobby brush) to treat/clean the metal & rusted area:
IMG_4550.jpg

used blue painters tape to mask & keep the area treated confined under existing rubber strip:
IMG_4568.jpg

applied 2 coats of por15 (with hobby brush) to the rust and seam area for protection & elimination of existing rust:
IMG_4575.jpg

IMG_4573.jpg

con't...

 

removed tape after allowing product to dry over night (also treated drip holes... front & rear):
IMG_4583.jpg

weather strip re-adhered & showing final results (as factory):
IMG_4643.jpg

~ see product link: http://www.por15.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1404/.f

 

Andrew, You're the MAN!
I've got one question. Does "POR 15" only come in black?

 

Andrew what made you decide to use POR15 instead of Rust Bullet, availability or did you see a benefit POR15 had over Rust Bullet?
I ask because the propaganda on the Rust Bullet site is certainly persuasive and I was considering their Automotive rust inhibitor: http://www.rustbullet.com/ProductCar...idCategory=120. By the way, you did and excellent job on the repair. Thank you for blazing the way once again.

 

Andrew, I went back and found the web site that you posted for the POR 15, it comes in black, gray, silver, and clear.
That definitely looks like a permanent fix for a "problem area" all Crossfires have, no matter where you live.
I can see how this thread could be a real turn off for anybody contemplating the purchase of a Crossfire in the future, but really it's no big deal. Most every car built has some sort of "problem area" whether it be mechanical, or cosmetic. We lucked out, seeing how it is so accessible, and such a relatively easy fix.
If it's any consolation, I once saw a 3 or 4 year old Ferrari Daytona coupe in Ocean City Maryland that had rust holes in the lower door panel large enough to put my fist through. I also witnessed a brand new Pantera that sat unsold on a Mercury dealers lot for over two years that was covered with surface rust.
I still think this has got to be one of the most important threads ever posted on this web site, because this is not a problem that's going to go away by itself. It needs to be addressed by every owner, whether you purchased your car or leased it. Because you can be sure the dealers will pick up on it eventually (if they don't already know about it) and some will charge you for the repair when you turn your car back in off lease. Being surface rust, I'm pretty sure this is our responsibility, and not covered under warranty.
If you put it off, it will only get alot worse, and eventually turn into a major body repair.
In the end, it's a small price to pay for such a great car. True, it's not something we should "need" to do. But we all do other things to keep our cars looking good, so just think of this as just one more "car care" procedure.

 

+fireamx your post got me thinking, that in an odd way that is issue may end up making our car even more exclusive. Those that don't address this problem will most likely be taken out of service much sooner. I know it is a dark benefit but I keep thinking of all those old Chevys that use to rust out in the wheel wells, many of them never got restored.

 

~ a friend restoring his car and had por15 (extras) immediately available. he highly recommended por15 & provided it to me at no cost.



i think rust bullet would be an outstanding choice as well...

~ regardless of which product one decides to use... make this repair asap... before its too late.

 

One has to wonder if the SLK relatives have had the same issue or if this is unique to our Crossfires.

 

That's an excellent question, but right off the top of my head I would guess the Mercedes is different for two reasons.
1. Our cars are a "reskinned " SLK, but we don't use similar door panels like the early Mitsubishi Eclipse and the Chrysler Sebring for instance.
2. I haven't notice any SLK door panels "rotting" out, and I usually pay attention to SLKs when I see them since I got my XF.
Then again, the design could be exactly the same. It would be interesting to check one out.
Maybe a quick trip over to the SLK web site is all that needs to be done to answer the question. Does anybody have a dual citizenship?

 

+fireamx - I became a dual citizen today. I found a lot of discussions about rust forming under the rubber moldings of certain Mercedes vehicles but couldn't find anything specific to the SLK. Seems to be a known problem for at least some Mercedes vehicles:

http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?t=6287

I wonder if Chrysler would be interested in creating "good will" by taking care of our problem? Could this be a Karmann design problem?

 

THANKS ANDREW!!!
I'll be picking up some por15 on my way home from the beach this saturday... can't wait to get this fixed myself without resorting to going to the dealer. Me so happy.

 

Thanks StLouisT, I really didn't think they were the same, but I honestly had no idea one way or the other. I was just speculating.
Now my question is: Have any forum members with 2005 Crossfires noticed any rust? Or is it just showing up on the 1st. year cars.

 

Took the cover off my stored 05' roadster (900 miles) late last night and saw some beginning signs of the moisture problem. Have to believe this is common on most of the crossfires as it obviously traps the moisture. You would think a car sitting on dealer's lot for seven months would be "clean", but not the case. I will treat with POR15 soon. I noticed that my door seal has drain holes in it, but obviously doesn't alleviate problem. Is there a technique involved to re install the seal to secure it as tight as it was when I pulled it out? Thanks Andrew for bringing this to our attention, great info! Happy Holiday's.

 

Mr4crossfire, We checked my friends '05 Roadster last night, and there was no rust, but the area was damp. I was just curious if any 05's were starting to rust. Because as far as I know, the seal's design hasn't changed and they all trap moisture.
As for any special trick to putting the seal back in, just push it back with your finger. It's oversized for the space that it fits in, and that's what holds it securely in place. I don't think there was ever an adhesive used to hold it there.

 

Fellow owners I just remembered the lower door rust issue and just checked out both my doors on my 05' coupe limited purchased in May/06' (new purchase 0 miles) and it now has 2,300 miles on it with only hand washings at home.
Well its starting to rust on both lower door sills just like some of the other owners.
Not happy but very thankful for the member/forum information to deal with this issue, you folks are the best. Its an easy thing to check and the rubber gasket just pops back in place so don't worry about removal damage.

178/Illinois

P.S. - I don't drive this car during winter so salt is not the culprit just poor design of this one issue.

 

~ this just tells me ALL crossfire owners need to take this seriously... before your lower door weather stripping falls off & its too late for a quick repair.

 

Thanks for pointing this issue out Andrew.
I think its is something the UK owners really need to watch with the climate we have! I'll put a link in this thread in the Euro section. I'm no stranger to rusty metal having spent years trying to keep it at bay on my old Spider, 911 and VW - it was the one thing I didn't think I would have to deal with on the Crossfire!
I popped the seals on mine just before Christmas and was very relieved to find that all was well, but I do try and keep all the door shuts clean. As a precaution I applied some Waxoyl to the seam for the time being but when the weather improves I will clean it off and apply a bead of seam sealer, which, like you stated, should have been there from the start! It one of those things that you automatically do whenever you have welded in a new panel otherwise the rust just comes back within months - I've just spent this weekend doing all the seams on a VW floor pan/tub.

 

Mmmm. Just seen this, as a UK owner I think I should be taking a good look at the weekend and treating as required.

Thanks for the heads up Andrew.

 

This sucks for those who've actually stepped up and bought their cars.

 

Aero, as I posted earlier, this problem may also be a big problem for those of you who "leased" your car too. Since it would be considered "surface" rust, then I think it would be your responsibility to take care of it. Even though it's caused by a poor design to start with.
When you turn your car back in, I'm sure some dealers will go directly to the "problem area" and point it out to you and say, "You're going to have to pay our body shop to fix that since it happened while you leased it.
It's a relatively easy fix now, but if you let it go, it will turn into something that most people would have to have a "professional" take care of.
We actually lucked out, because a lot of cars have the very same "problem areas" that are completely hidden, and don't show up until it's to far gone for a simple solution to alleviate it.