Okay I'm with ya now.. I was just after the body.. figure if someone can buy the whole nine yards for that, why mess with the sensor and the potential "bite" that can come with an unhappy customer... LOL.

I'll save it for our 5 ltr friends on that other forum..

 

so i got the 74mm throttle body and the O ring... do i need the larger MAF as well. please any info will be very helpful.

 

The MAF housing, I think, is just optional. I just did this upgrade, myself, but I installed the larger MAF housing. The larger MAF housing does help and very easy to switch out with the old one.

 

You should use the original MAF sensor ( the 68mm one ). The 74mm MAF sensor has shown to be problematic for the computer on the N/A's

 

Not much sense for larger TB and choke it back down with small MAF housing in my opinion...just saying...but you can switch out later very easily..

 

Uuuuuuuh .... what ???
O never mind, I see now that you meant "sense", not "since"

English language is a B*t*h

 

Spelling police on duty.. in my defense it was with my itty bitty phone screen...

 

Nope, in this case it was not the spelling gestapo, it was the secret conceptual police ( SCP )

 

OK, let me see if I can clear up a couple of nagging questions I have? I did the tune from Eurocharged, I got a whopping increase in performance (USING MID GRADE 89 OCTANE). I use the mid grade at 89 because it is 2 points below the 91 octane required. Since all the stations around here use 93 octane premium, I cannot use the 91 it says it requires. If the car can adjust 2 points below the 93, then I figure it can adjust the 2 points down from 91 to 89. This is not a octane post, just stating this point before I post my quandary with anyone installing the 74mm TB and MAF housing. I wonder if the car can adjust to the 74mm TB AND using something lower than 91 octane? You are injecting a whole lot of extra air and if you do not adjust the tune for all that extra air, you may be super starving the engine if you use anything less than 91 octane. Now I know I am using 89, but I have the tune for the TB/MAF so I am thinking I am air/fuel neutral again given the tune should be balancing the A/F ratio again so the 2 points up/down semi rule should be OK. Now you know my stand, and here is my question stated for others. If you use the 74mm TB/MAF, are you putting the MINIMUM 91 octane, or are you also saving $ by using 89? I suggest if you are, you may be seriously lean! OK, now please lets not jump on my assertions about my XF and 89 octane, lets find out who might be doing the mods and not using minimum 91 octane (before getting a tune). OK?

 

Octane all has to do with engine knock/preignition on the compression stroke, the higher the octane the more compression it can withstand. The 91 number is relative to which country you are in as the testing/rating is different here in Canada & the US vice Europe. So could the performance difference be noticed if one does not experience "engine knock"?? I wonder if the owners manuals state the octane number differently in Europe vice the US??
I have 74mm throttle body and NW CAI, use 100% gasoline (no ethanol) and 93 octane; runs good.
I doubt it would be running lean on 89. The ratio between fuel and air should remain constant with the tune. If the fuel does not ignite early because of compression temperature then I doubt performance would be effected. I guess one might be able to find the difference with a dyno comparison, but if there is no preignition and you are happy with the performance...Carry on. It is your choice. If you race the car then higher temperatures would be expected and higher octane would be required.

 

These sentences 'This is not a octane post...' and 'lets find out who might be doing the mods and not using minimum 91 octane (before getting a tune)' are THE MAIN POINTS! Maybe my structure isn't as sound as it should be but critical reading was what I thought would be leading to these points out of the paragraph. THIS IS NOT AN OCTANE POST!

 

Umm.. octane has no relation to a rich or lean condition?

 

Our cars also have knock sensors to warn of just the condition you describe: if you are lean and running hot the sensors should detect the condition.

 

Hi All,

I upgraded the Throttle body but do not understand the part # etc to upgrade the MAF.
Could you provide the MAF part #? to match the 74mm new throttle body.

Thank You,
Max

 

https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...tml#post717257

You only use the housing.. put your MAF back in this and toss the el cheapo one that comes with it.

 

This was put together (click) to cover the whole intake modification using Mercedes parts.

 

Is it worth to spend another $40 for that mod?
Thanks

 

At wide open throttle you have 3" dia throttle body sucking through a 2 3/4" opening.. get the picture? So at less than full throttle.. I don't see where it would make a real difference.

 

sorry to be blonde, Mr Miata but you mean you do not recommend to buy the housing and put the oem sensor in it?!

One more question for tonight. where can i find some rubber piping heat resistant to build my own CAI?

 

LOL.. Looking on ebay at tubing and silicon connectors right now.. here's a website though.

Black Rubber Hoses: Intake Hoses, IntakeTubing, and Intake Clamps


I'm just saying at full throttle is when the larger maf housing would have a true difference.. how much.. hard to say. I did it just to squeeze all the juice from the throttle body upgrade.