I understand what you are saying and believe me I have read your posts tens of times and then again over again. I am getting to be an expert at the manual syncing of the convertible top process.
The misundersanding problem is that Chrysler reused the term "Latch Retainer Switch" for two different objects. One object is the what you described is in the windshield frame. The other object is what you described in your post below

At the time you indicated that you had not found the sensor in the service manuals. It is in the 2005 SRT manuals and they describe it as a "Latch Retainer Switch", the same description as the sensor on the windshield frame. The description and drawings are in the 2005 Crossfire SRT Service Manual on Page W-66-3. The switch is buried in the trunk latch mechanism and is attached to 3 pin connector that only has two wires connected. It is loomed with the license plate light connector which is a 2 pin (two wire) connector. At the time I was first chasing it, I got the connectors mixed up since they were on the same loom and the **%& latch switch is buried in the trunk latch. This sensor wire ties into pin16 of the PTCM (Latch Retainer Switch Sense) and is an open circuit when the trunk lid is closed tight. I now know this is the standard protocol for NO/NC switches in the Chrysler diagrams. So the normally open (NO) switch shown in the diagram means the trunk lid fully closed (not grounded).
As you indicated with your Wayne Mullins story, he just needed to push the trunk lid down harder (or adjust the stops) to make this switch to go open. The DRBIII emulator indicated that the latch retainer switch was grounded (circuit closed) all the time whether the trunk lid was closed or open. This switch is in series with the other sensors that won't allow the top to operate unless they "clear."
My car has 21,000 miles and has been garaged throughout its life by the previous owner, hence I did not think there was a wiring integrity problem initially. Another poster had mentioned that the sensor in the latch on his car (and some doner cars) had taken a "set' because of the lid being closed a lot of time, Therefore, I suspected the sensor in the latch was bad due to failure of it working by pushing hard or adjusting the trunk lid stop adjusters.
I got led astray by the previous owner's story that there was a broken wire somewhere (I did not see any wire fixes in the trunk area). It turns out that the sensor wire would be grounding out for this particular failure and not be a an actual break.
I picked up a used latch with the sensor in it (since there are no new ones). This replacement latch had a spring that was broken in it and would not latch (Grrr). The latch retainer switch is riveted in the latch so I just got another latch as a backup and I started disconnecting the PTCM wiring loom connectors. I al;so now knew from searching that grounded sensor wire (pin 16) would give the same DRBIII signal as an inactive latch retainer switch on the trunk lid.
So I dug into the wiring. The loom (pin 16) from the trunk latch connector to the PTCM travels from the trunk lid to the passenger side quarter panel connector that was isolated is not grounded. The continuation of that loom that goes into the passenger compartment to the PTCM on the driver side quarter panel appears to be grounded on the pin 16 line. The DRBIII would show that the trunk is not closed all the way if this wire (Pin 16) was grounded.
I was now trying to get validation of how the circuit works (grounding means open trunk) and if somebody knew the routing of the main loom in the passenger compartment. I have a lot of things tore apart in the trunk and was not anxious to tear back into the back passenger wall after changing the speakers out.

If I was going to blame myself, perhaps I might have pinched (grounded) the pin 16 wire in the loom when I reinstalled the replaced back subwoofers.
Like I said, I wanted some emotional and technical support before I cut the pin 16 wire in the loom (to verify the grounding) or tore into the passenger compartment again to find the pinched (grounded) wire. I still have wounds from putting in the back speakers and hooking up the modified stock amp (4 channel), so I was just asking for advice before I dove in.

Terry