Re: Brake problem. Need advice?
Originally Posted by oledoc2u
I agree with 700GT6, first make sure emergency brake cable isn't stuck, second, make sure caliper is working properly. Brake fluid will break down over time, but won't cause the problem you are discribing. You either have a hanging brake do to caliper, or shoe hanging, or if you use your emergency brake, it could be hanging. Fluid will make the whole system function poorly. Throttle bodies are always dirty with oil and such, doesn't hurt to clean it, but if it is running fine, well your choice, and forget about the tire fill. Make sure you use a good brake fluid rated above 400 degrees, no use putting back in the same stuff. If you want to beef up your brake system, change to a high performance pad, replace rubber brake lines with metal ones, and the rotors on these cars are as good as they get. Big and strong, but you can upgrade those as well if you like...good brake fluid will cost $40 or more, so don't skimp...
Pads that are rubbing on the rotor are most often caused by the slide pins being fouled up by rust, the caliper assembly not sliding freely in the mounting bracket or a sticky piston. The most common problems are the first two mentioned.
Replacing the flexible lines from the chassis to the pistons with stainless steel braided hose does not increase the hoop strength of the hose over that of the OEM hoses unless the hose itself is stronger. The braiding is basically a cosmetic improvement with a slightly improved protection from damage from road debris, it will not by itself improve the hoop strength of the hose by a significant amount. The hoop strength of the hose is what makes the brake pedal feel more or less spongy assuming that there is no air in the system. The fluid should be changed as per the manual maintenance schedule, factory approved fluid is fine for every day use.
Do not bother to turn the rotors, replace them when they are worn unevenly. They should last for two sets of pads, so flush out and replace the fluid at the same time. It is cheaper to change the fluid than repair the master and caliper cylinders.
If you have a caliper cylinder that is leaking you might as well replace the pads while you have it apart and the rotors if they are near the end of their life, why rip it apart again. Of course if you are not doing it yourself let your wallet be your guide.
PS
My wife drove our 300 with a sticky caliper, it was rusty slide pins. After the warranty repair of pads pins and rotor, the fuel efficiency went up noticeably.
Last edited by onehundred80; 07-26-2009 at 12:56 PM.