So this isn't the first time I've encountered this problem, but I still am not certain this time what could fix it.

Long story short, I have a rear caliper that is sticking and I'm getting that oh-so-awful whooshing, scraping sound. I've had this problem with a Buick Skylark I used to own, which cost me $300ish to get the whole front brake system redone (rebuilt calipers, new rotor), but this one doesn't seem as bad. It's not nearly as loud and the brakes seem to grab just fine.

Now I just had my Crossfire in for my spoiler problem (that seems will never be fixed) and the dealer I took it to did one of those free multi-point inspections. I know most of the time, they'll put something on there you don't actually need so they can get more business, but this one actually brought up some pertinent info. 3 things, brake fluid contaminated (recommended replacement after 2 years or 24,000 miles- I just passed 24,000 and am coming up on 2 years), throttle body is dirty, and they recommended that nitrogen tire fill (which is a nice thing, but gas stations don't carry nitrogen if I need to adjust tire pressure, and no way in hell am I keeping some stored around my house).

So my question is (along with any advice/fixes you can give me), if I get a brake system flush, and if necessary, have the rotor put on a lathe, will I be good? Will doing the brake system flush possibly solve the problem by itself? It doesn't seem to be as bad to were the rotor would be warped from heat, but it definitely needs attention to either fix or prevent the problem.

 

If you have a caliper hanging due to a stuck/sticky pistion, I doubt a flush will bring it back to life.

I have not replaced my rear pads yet so I am not familar with them. Is it possible you have some hardware hanging up the caliber? You or someone needs to take the caliper apart from the knuckle to be sure everything is sliding / floating properly. At 24K, I just can't see a bad caliper already, but anything is possible.

James

 

Yeah, I'm pretty sure contaminated brake fluid caused it though. It's funny, 'cause I just realized awhile ago I asked about a smell that was coming from my Xfire, thought it was burning clutch, someone told me it was the brakes. Now I know why.

Oddly enough, the brake wear indicator still hasn't come on.

I don't know if it's just me noticing it more now, I do listen for it intently now, but it seems to be much more noticeable. I'm figuring I need the caliper rebuilt and at least the rotor put on a lathe.

Does anyone know how tough our rotors are?

 

Do not turn the rotors, replace them if they are scored or damaged. The rotors will probably end of warping and you will get brake shudder. Replacing worn or damaged rotors will be money well spent.

 

If you are hearing a scraping sound and you are saying the rotors are not grooved or scraped it may not be the caliper - check the emergency brake instead. - you may have a stuck cable or a loose brake shoe.
Just a chance.

 

I agree with 700GT6, first make sure emergency brake cable isn't stuck, second, make sure caliper is working properly. Brake fluid will break down over time, but won't cause the problem you are discribing. You either have a hanging brake do to caliper, or shoe hanging, or if you use your emergency brake, it could be hanging. Fluid will make the whole system function poorly. Throttle bodies are always dirty with oil and such, doesn't hurt to clean it, but if it is running fine, well your choice, and forget about the tire fill. Make sure you use a good brake fluid rated above 400 degrees, no use putting back in the same stuff. If you want to beef up your brake system, change to a high performance pad, replace rubber brake lines with metal ones, and the rotors on these cars are as good as they get. Big and strong, but you can upgrade those as well if you like...good brake fluid will cost $40 or more, so don't skimp...

 

Pads that are rubbing on the rotor are most often caused by the slide pins being fouled up by rust, the caliper assembly not sliding freely in the mounting bracket or a sticky piston. The most common problems are the first two mentioned.
Replacing the flexible lines from the chassis to the pistons with stainless steel braided hose does not increase the hoop strength of the hose over that of the OEM hoses unless the hose itself is stronger. The braiding is basically a cosmetic improvement with a slightly improved protection from damage from road debris, it will not by itself improve the hoop strength of the hose by a significant amount. The hoop strength of the hose is what makes the brake pedal feel more or less spongy assuming that there is no air in the system. The fluid should be changed as per the manual maintenance schedule, factory approved fluid is fine for every day use.
Do not bother to turn the rotors, replace them when they are worn unevenly. They should last for two sets of pads, so flush out and replace the fluid at the same time. It is cheaper to change the fluid than repair the master and caliper cylinders.
If you have a caliper cylinder that is leaking you might as well replace the pads while you have it apart and the rotors if they are near the end of their life, why rip it apart again. Of course if you are not doing it yourself let your wallet be your guide.
PS
My wife drove our 300 with a sticky caliper, it was rusty slide pins. After the warranty repair of pads pins and rotor, the fuel efficiency went up noticeably.

 

Just a note to mention that the rear brake pads DO NOT have the wires and wear indicator sensors which will trigger that light.
This is only on the front pads.

 

Sounds like it ought to be a warranty issue...

 

Good info. Didn't know that. As for the fuel mileage, I still get pretty good mileage for the way I drive, at least on the highway.

And as for the E-brake, I do use it when I park, but if a shoe was stuck, wouldn't I notice the horrible pull from it?

I did check (not thoroughly) the rear rotors last night for excessive heat after a short drive. Needless to say, the left rear wasn't hot at all (the one I suspect to be the culprit, since the noise is coming from the left rear of the car), the right rear was a little warm, but nothing to make me think it was overheating.

After the info you guys gave me, I don't know whether it really is a caliper or it's my E-brake. I'm still thinking is should be the caliper, but I've only encountered this once before on a different car that I didn't use the parking brake on, and it was the front brakes.

 

No heat means it is not working, therefore no noise. Possibly the cylinder is frozen up or a blocked line. If the emerg.brake was frozen it would warm up the rotor as well. Have you thought of a bearing failure?

 

Shapeshifter;

The most likely candidate for one pad wearing is dirty slides. As a master ASE tech and having done hundreds of brake jobs, I have no doubt that the slides are giving you problems. I saw that on 90% of the problem brakes.

However if you want to diagnose the problem here is the way:
If the inner pad is wearing prematurely it is the piston sticking.
If the outer pad is wearing prematurely it is the slides sticking.
To solve the piston sticking, the caliper needs to be overhauled or buy rebuilt (loaded) units and just install them.
If the slides are sticking, you only have to remove the pins, clean them with steel wool, lightly wipe them with anti-seize compound and reinstall them, with new pads of course.
Final note: brakes are always done in axle sets. So do the same to the other side.

If it's under warranty be sure to see the old parts they remove. It insures you get the work you ask for and there is no fraud involved.

Let me know how this turns out. This could also be the opportunity to paint the calipers if you are so inclined. They look really nice on our cars. Just please don't use purple or pink!! So not kuhl.

Xfirepop

 

In 2007 after driving home from the 1st. Dragon, I drove my car hard and put it away wet...literally. In the spring I pulled it out of the garage, and the emergency cable froze up on me after sitting for 5 months.
I'd take a close look at the emergency brake shoe sticking. Since they're on the back, one brake shoe could be froze and it still wouldn't necessarily feel as though it's pulling in one direction or the other.
I had Rotex Gold pads installed on all four brakes when it turned up 30k miles, and the dealer "turned" all four rotors at that time. My car now has 45k on it with 2 Dragon runs under its belt and the brakes still feel fine, with no ill effects what so ever.

 

It does seem like a caliper problem. I've never done a brake job, so I couldn't tell what is exactly wrong with it. I've ruled out the E-brake, since the noise changes when I apply brake pressure. I'm not sure it goes away entirely, but I do know the whooshing sound stops. It sounds like, however, when I apply brake pressure that the sound goes from that to a continuous metal-against-metal rubbing sound. It could just be normal brake noise though. Either way, it's very faint.

From what I know, it has to be a caliper problem. I hope it's what you've described, since it seems that what you're describing seems like its cheaper. I didn't try to feel how much heat was coming off the inner side of the rotor, just the outer, so it may be that.

 

Dear god I hope it isn't. I doubt that it is, since I would suspect there might be a little more to it then noise. Either way, I don't have the money for expensive repairs right now, so I'm hoping it's what xfirepop described.

I'm setting up an appointment at my local shop tomorrow morning. The guy that runs the place worked a lot on my last car, and he does good work, so I trust him to get the job done right. I think his labor rate is only $70 an hour and most of the time, he charges a flat rate for certain services.

 

But isn't it still under the 3 year 36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty period?

 

No, brakes, along with a few other things are only covered for 1 year/12,000 miles. I'm just past 24,000 and coming up on 2 years.

 

Worn brake pads/rotors are not covered but if the car has a fault in the brake system due to bad parts etc it should be covered for the 3 years, even if you are the second owner.
Worn pads/rotors are covered if their failure was due to something else.

 

Good point. I'll call the dealership here today and ask them about it. In the warranty info, it says pads and rotors. If the caliper is screwed and has been causing damage, they should replace the rotor and pads too, if they are damaged enough.

Would me being 53 miles over the 24,000 allow them to try to claim it as neglect by me though? since I haven't gotten the recommended brake system flush? And by recommended, I mean the service manual recommends it, not just the dealer I took it to last.

 

UPDATE:

Just called the dealer and scheduled an appointment for the brake problem and the spoiler. onehundred80 was right about the caliper being under the 3/36,000 warranty terms, however the tech did tell me if it turns out to be something with the pad, then it's not covered (which I already know). Problem is if they try to pull something then I'll be out $53 for a "brake inspection". I'm debating whether or not to take it in to my local shop that I have an appointment with today to have a brake inspection done there, since I know they are usually cheaper with everything.

Either way, Thursday, I'll be without my Xfire for awhile because of the spoiler issue...

Maybe I can get one as a rental from them.