Originally Posted by jmk41
Im lost bud... That wheel is a little 2 hairy and cute for my liking! I bet any size bolt would ruin your "wheels".
Take a look at that link you posted...
Buy one long *** bolt with the correct seating (seating explained below) and measure the correct amount sicking out then order the correct sized bolts. I cant give you a number its impossible every wheel is different.
Make sure your able to get the wheel in 8 or 8.5 in the front and 9 or 9.5 in the rear any smaller in the rear will trash your handling and any larger up front will rub in your fender wells and junk!!
Lug bolts come in 2 types of seat tapered, conical, cone seat (those 3 names are different names for the same seat) and ball seat. The bolts used on our stock wheels are ball seat so chances are good you will need to buy lug bolts separate. To my knowledge no wheel is sold with bolts... Even if the ball seated stock bolts are the correct seat for the wheel the chances that the length will match is slim to none in which case you would want to order more bolts anyway because if you cut your stock ones your stock wheel will no longer work.
TSW uses conical seat and as far as I know almost all aftermarket wheels are conical seat. What I did was, I ordered my wheels then ordered the longest conical seated lug bolts so I could cut them to the size I needed. Took about an hour with 3 people helping to cut all the lugs and mount them.
Another idea sadly this just came to me!
When you order your wheels over the phone which you are going to do!!! Never ever trust the online order forms for wheels they are a ***** to return if need be!!! Explain to the sales person that you need specific length lug bolts and if available you would like him or her to get lug bolt thats sick out the mounting side of the wheel a hair under 3/4 i suggest you get a metric measurement in mm so its exact and have them send you the bolts or at least give you the size you will need
**Tips**
1.) If you attempt cutting buy rent or borrow a dye set to clean the threads up before you go running them into your hubs!!!
2.) Run the lugs in and before you really snug them up turn the wheel to make sure your bolts are not hitting the ebrake assembly!!! Im not sure if tightening the bolts down on anything in there will hurt anything or not but I wouldn't test it!
3.) If you cut your bolts have a tube of never-seize handy and cover the bolt with it before you insert it. When you cut the bolt your opening an unprotected bit of bolt and will rust a bit making it an absolute beeotch to get out next time around...
Alright man, thank you for the help. Using your logic and a little of my common sense power i decided to buck up and take the rear wheel off my car. When i unbolted the rear wheel and measured the part of the bolt that stuck out past the wheel, it measured maybe a few mm shorter the bolts i got with my order.
So im stuck with, does 2mm make a difference? is the clearance that close? Well i didn't want to drag the aftermarket wheel out there, with no tire on it because with out a doubt i'd end up contacting the pavement in a way i wish it wouldn't. So i just did a visual check with the wheel off, spun it around to get a good look at what i could see, then pulled the E-brake and spun to see what kind of clearance difference it made. It doesn't look like it will cause a problem, and im going to bet my E-brake system on it because im gonna have a local tire shop swap the tires and wheels out for me, because that's just easier.
Also when you pull the lugs out, you can see the part that are screwed into the rotors and the part that passes into the rotor/ebrake assembly. It just looks like it's covered in a greasy brake dust. So you can kinda tell.
Anyhow, i figured i'd post my experience/logic with the wheels. Also as i said, tire rack sent me bolts that seemed to fit nicely. It might be by chance, or because i matched the wheels up by vehicle and they knew how long bolts i needed.