As Mario has stated here, I, too, have found that the turn signal lever is ONLY inhibited from being used to FLASH highbeams, but it does not interfere with paddle operation and vise versa (either in high beam or low beam position).

HOWEVER, depending on how I hover over the paddles, I have felt the brush of the turn-signal lever on the back of my finger on occasion. So, I can understand the motivation to add a little room there. I don't think it is necessary (but I may do it on my new SLK32).

As I am always interested in feedback that may improve the kit (and kit install), among other aspects of the kit that I have talked with Rudy about, we have spoken briefly about this. Rudy suggested it was simple enough to heat it and bend it back slightly (keep in mind that Rudy is a genius at this sort of thing and those who are less handy will want to work slowly and take care not to inadvertently damage nearby items with the heat).

I have not, myself, tried to bend the turn signal lever. When the possible need to do so first came up, my first thought was a heat gun (and since Rudy has had success this way, it seems like the way to go). I have however bent the VOX (voice command) lever as I got one for a C class that needed a little bend to become identical to that of an SLK. My first approach was heat (heat gun) but the lever behaved like it was plastic-clad thin wall aluminum ... so it needed more than heat and light persuasion (it ended up getting heat and moderate persuasion). ..... If the this is the case with the turn signal lever (plastic-clad thin wall aluminum) then heat (and appropriate level of persuasion) will do (as Rudy has done) but one should take precautions (as I imagine Rudy does) to not put excessive loads on the lever at its pivot (and its associated components inside the column).
One method that I have found that works well for bending tubing (with no kinking and minimal flattening) that will ALSO help support the lever while bending (hopefully preventing excessive loads on pivot and internals) is to find a pulley that is intended for cable or rope (for rope that is the same diameter as the the tube (lever in this case) you are bending OR a "V" pulley in a pinch .... and then use this to back up the tubing (lever) as you bend it. The larger the diameter of the pulley, the softer the bend; however, in this case, the size of the pulley will determine how far from the column you make a bend. And keeping it mind that the closer to the column that the bend is ... the smaller the angle of the bend need be, a small pulley would be in order.

EDIT
I just looked this over a bit and all that is needed is to relax the factory bend in the lever.
Start by extending the wheel all the way out and then sliding a piece of soft wood between the lever and the lower dash. This should provide adequate protection from the heat gun and (when sized properly in terms of thickness so that the factory bend is resting on the wood) should provide a reasonable support for the lever while bending.
Measuring where you start (in terms of distance from lever tip to wheel or lever tip to board) and then bending in small increments while applying localized heat should do the trick.

Rudy, if you have thoughts on this (topic and procedure) you would care to share ... please do

Chris