WHY WAS IT, that when I came back to the computer I had a funny feeling you'd tell me it's running???

Yea, it's bad connections - and we know now that it CAN run right if it wants to, so no damage to the modules...

I Have 12v on the PK/RD wire withe key on and A/C on
1.0v on gray wire with key and A/C on

Large wires going into the FCM
BLK-4.7v
BLK -13.0v
OR-0
OR -0
when i started the car with A/c on I measured again
PK/RD- 4.5v
GRAY 4.5v as i was removing insulating wrap on gray wire the fan kicked on at low speed !!! yipppeee

The first black at 4.7 is going to the fan. The second one, comes from the battery/source. THese check out ok - about 4-5 volts is what you get with a not-hot-yet engine but WITH A/C on. TUrn the A/C off and that lead will go to 0.

Pk/Rd should be either 0 (key off) or 11-14 volts with key on and running. This is a raw ignition switch feed to power the module.

The Gray wire will show anything, as it's pulse modulated.

You might test the Fan Module you bought - if it checks ok, and I"m sure it does, you can advertise it here in our parts-for-sale area. SOMEONE is gonna want it eventually.

===================

Beware that SOMEWHERE a pin was corroded or something. THis can be the mating contacts that you lubed OR it can be the contact between the strands of the wire and the crimp terminal at the connector! It could even be at the other end (at the ignition distribution block or the PTCM - but I doubt it since you started to wiggle and probe wires and it started working - likely it's right there at the fan module.)