Ok, here we go. This is how I'd do it, looking at the diagrams, I know the output of the FACTORY head is floating. That is, you cannot connect one side of the speaker output to ground. Fine. But will the AMP object to having one side grounded? If so, then we cannot use the preamp outputs on the right side of the Kenwood (as viewed from behind) because they are phone/rca jacks and are grounded to the chassis. I WISH Boiler or someone else was here to comment on that aspect.


Going on that assumption, I'd try this (and my wire colors in the car are based on the 2005 SRT manual, the only one I have, but I do NOT believe anything changed.)

In the wiring harness coming from the rectangular connector on the Kenwood:
Connect (kenwood) white to left door tweeter + terminal.
Connect (kenwood) white/black to left door tweeter - terminal.
Connect (kenwood) Gray to right door tweeter + terminal.
Connect (kenwood) Gray/Black to right door tweeter - terminal.
(These are the wires you have got to run yourself.)

Now the tweeters are on the front outputs of the Kenwood.

Connect (kenwood) Green to car harness black.
Connect (kenwood) Green/Black to car harness Black/Brown.

This connects the left rear speaker output of the Kenwood to the left speaker behind the seat and the Left Kappa, by way of the amp.

Connect (kenwood) Purple to car harness yellow.
Connect (kenwood) Purple/Black to car harness Yellow Violet.

This connects the right rear speaker output of the Kenwood to the right speaker behind the seat and the right Kappa by way of the amp.


Now, you are powering the every speaker in the car with the amp - except the tweeters, which are being driven by the Kenwood directly. Using your front to back fader in the Kenwood, you can customize how hard you want to drive the tweeters versus how hard you drive the Kappas and woofers behind the seats.

There is little power in the high frequencies in music, so the 20 watts per channel of the Kenwood is fine for driving tweeters. And the amp's 140 watt output is driving the Kappas and Woofers.

I PREFER to use the preamp output to drive the Amp, but, again, I've not tried it and never paid attention to the guys who have done this.

Also, connecting a non-polarized 270uF capacitor in each + line to the tweeters will probably make them sound better. This will block a lot of the bass and low frequencies going to the tweeters (which can't reproduce lows well anyway), and make them sound better. This cap can be added and left accessbile by placing it behind the little pop-out panel at the front of the door (this panel is hidden by the dash when you close the door, nice place to hide the cap and you can easily get to it to change it if you want to, without tearing the door apart). This is part of the "Most bang for your buck" audio mod mentioned elsewhere on this forum.