It went very well and was much easier than I thought. Replacing a top is a perfect weekend job for me, if the book says 3 hours, I'm around 3 days. FSM directions were quite clear and good, but they leave out a couple of main parts imho.

First the 4 weatherstrips (2 ea side) you need to remove are simply a pinch welt moulding and pries out easily, took me a while to figure that out, its designed so well and fits very well. I thought at first there were screw holes, not so. In fact the more I do to this car the more I appreciate their design and forethought towards maintenance. Pry direction is straight vertical, I was prying in the wrong direction at first.

Make sure both heated rear window wires are fully extended, I left a bit of slack on the left side and the area was buried later and my wire didn't reach the connector on the glass. they are retained by a plastic trim that snaps in, my left side was protruding after I was finished so I went back in and removed it cuz it was sticking up against the top causing a bulge. At the same time I fully extended the wire and plugged it in. I risk the wire getting caught in something while operating top, not worried but will keep an eye on it.

FSM said there was a mark on the center of the new top, I missed it, later to find it, very hard to see. I must advocate marking the middle of the rear bow rubber w chalk before disassembly and the middle of the new top, both must line up w each other and the car. Mine was a eighth inch or so off and it seemed to center itself as I drove the car.

Your pop rivet gun must have an extended nose, the flat kind will not get in there for the 4 top rivits.

Every car will be slightly different as far as small fit issues. Mine fits perfectly on the right side, slight wave on left side, but as I recall the old top was that way too, hardly noticeable. I think my top mechanism could adjust that wave out, but its one of those where I'm the only one who sees it.
I've got more pics but they're not needed as the first ones show just about everything. While in there look at all top hydraulics w a bright light to verify no leaks in the system. Hard to see fluid against black brackets, my car is white but you're looking for a drop on black metal.

And a flat 10 mm open wrench works perfect on the tonneau release, and I have not tried the allen wrench on the top bow latch yet, I looked at it and it was not obvious where it would fit. I'll figure out that later.

That's all I can think of now, go ahead and tackle the job guys, its hard to do it wrong actually !!