Can I replace the top myself?
But you are more than welcome to donate the price of that manual you were gonna order.
Want my paypal ?
( and yes, the pdf file has decent pics )
Can I get log in information too? Ebay has quite a few items I could use..
How about I hold you in high esteem for many years to come? Really I am so grateful to this forum and the active guys in particular who supply the rest of us with needed info so we can drive cars that otherwise we could not afford if we had to pay for various services.
Thanks to you all !
Thanks to you all !
How about I hold you in high esteem for many years to come? Really I am so grateful to this forum and the active guys in particular who supply the rest of us with needed info so we can drive cars that otherwise we could not afford if we had to pay for various services.
Thanks to you all !
Thanks to you all !
OK here we go. Got the front retainer off and front of top is not secured. Time to remove side rubber seals and they are the "no visible means of support" type of part. How are those things held on there? I can see on the new top there are plastic sections to remove, but how do I get there from here?

DSC_0142_zpsf8fe1507.jpghttp://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps06e90b3c.jpg
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DSC_0142_zpsf8fe1507.jpghttp://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i2...ps06e90b3c.jpg
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I can see where I think the rubber trim has a tab that slides into a clip below. Am wondering if there are other attachment methods or is this one tab w cllip the only one? Tried prying on it gently, the book has no description it just says; "remove part". So I'm wondering......
It went very well and was much easier than I thought. Replacing a top is a perfect weekend job for me, if the book says 3 hours, I'm around 3 days. FSM directions were quite clear and good, but they leave out a couple of main parts imho.
First the 4 weatherstrips (2 ea side) you need to remove are simply a pinch welt moulding and pries out easily, took me a while to figure that out, its designed so well and fits very well. I thought at first there were screw holes, not so. In fact the more I do to this car the more I appreciate their design and forethought towards maintenance. Pry direction is straight vertical, I was prying in the wrong direction at first.
Make sure both heated rear window wires are fully extended, I left a bit of slack on the left side and the area was buried later and my wire didn't reach the connector on the glass. they are retained by a plastic trim that snaps in, my left side was protruding after I was finished so I went back in and removed it cuz it was sticking up against the top causing a bulge. At the same time I fully extended the wire and plugged it in. I risk the wire getting caught in something while operating top, not worried but will keep an eye on it.
FSM said there was a mark on the center of the new top, I missed it, later to find it, very hard to see. I must advocate marking the middle of the rear bow rubber w chalk before disassembly and the middle of the new top, both must line up w each other and the car. Mine was a eighth inch or so off and it seemed to center itself as I drove the car.
Your pop rivet gun must have an extended nose, the flat kind will not get in there for the 4 top rivits.
Every car will be slightly different as far as small fit issues. Mine fits perfectly on the right side, slight wave on left side, but as I recall the old top was that way too, hardly noticeable. I think my top mechanism could adjust that wave out, but its one of those where I'm the only one who sees it.
I've got more pics but they're not needed as the first ones show just about everything. While in there look at all top hydraulics w a bright light to verify no leaks in the system. Hard to see fluid against black brackets, my car is white but you're looking for a drop on black metal.
And a flat 10 mm open wrench works perfect on the tonneau release, and I have not tried the allen wrench on the top bow latch yet, I looked at it and it was not obvious where it would fit. I'll figure out that later.
That's all I can think of now, go ahead and tackle the job guys, its hard to do it wrong actually !!
First the 4 weatherstrips (2 ea side) you need to remove are simply a pinch welt moulding and pries out easily, took me a while to figure that out, its designed so well and fits very well. I thought at first there were screw holes, not so. In fact the more I do to this car the more I appreciate their design and forethought towards maintenance. Pry direction is straight vertical, I was prying in the wrong direction at first.
Make sure both heated rear window wires are fully extended, I left a bit of slack on the left side and the area was buried later and my wire didn't reach the connector on the glass. they are retained by a plastic trim that snaps in, my left side was protruding after I was finished so I went back in and removed it cuz it was sticking up against the top causing a bulge. At the same time I fully extended the wire and plugged it in. I risk the wire getting caught in something while operating top, not worried but will keep an eye on it.
FSM said there was a mark on the center of the new top, I missed it, later to find it, very hard to see. I must advocate marking the middle of the rear bow rubber w chalk before disassembly and the middle of the new top, both must line up w each other and the car. Mine was a eighth inch or so off and it seemed to center itself as I drove the car.
Your pop rivet gun must have an extended nose, the flat kind will not get in there for the 4 top rivits.
Every car will be slightly different as far as small fit issues. Mine fits perfectly on the right side, slight wave on left side, but as I recall the old top was that way too, hardly noticeable. I think my top mechanism could adjust that wave out, but its one of those where I'm the only one who sees it.
I've got more pics but they're not needed as the first ones show just about everything. While in there look at all top hydraulics w a bright light to verify no leaks in the system. Hard to see fluid against black brackets, my car is white but you're looking for a drop on black metal.
And a flat 10 mm open wrench works perfect on the tonneau release, and I have not tried the allen wrench on the top bow latch yet, I looked at it and it was not obvious where it would fit. I'll figure out that later.
That's all I can think of now, go ahead and tackle the job guys, its hard to do it wrong actually !!
Last edited by boxdin; Oct 29, 2013 at 04:37 PM.
I assume you know the top is warrantied by Chrysler for 10 years from orig date of purchase or 100k miles? I just had my 2005 replaced totally free by my local Chrysler dealer due to the rear glass being loose..... normally a $2600 job. As I'm sure you know, the rear glass coming loose is a common problem in Crossfire Roadsters. That's why this warranty was added by Chrysler a few years back.
Call Chrysler at: 800-247-9753 with your VIN number. They will verify everything for you. When I called, they were courteous and helpful. Didn't try to weasel out of anything.
Good luck.
Gabby
Call Chrysler at: 800-247-9753 with your VIN number. They will verify everything for you. When I called, they were courteous and helpful. Didn't try to weasel out of anything.
Good luck.
Gabby
I did go through the process w Chrysler, my car was sold new in Dallas so it qualified as a hot delivery state for the recall. My being the third owner or so, they were willing to pay 300 bucks and I graciously accepted their contribution to the cause. The local dealer was useless but Chrysler national was great to work with. This new top cost a grand, was a breeze to put on, and the car looks better then it ever has, we bought it w the butchered top and lowered the price accordingly, so we're happy all the way around. Had the car two yrs now and enjoy it more every day.
This forum is very valuable to me i keeping this car in great shape. Thanks to all.
This forum is very valuable to me i keeping this car in great shape. Thanks to all.
I assume you know the top is warrantied by Chrysler for 10 years from orig date of purchase or 100k miles? I just had my 2005 replaced totally free by my local Chrysler dealer due to the rear glass being loose..... normally a $2600 job. As I'm sure you know, the rear glass coming loose is a common problem in Crossfire Roadsters. That's why this warranty was added by Chrysler a few years back.
Call Chrysler at: 800-247-9753 with your VIN number. They will verify everything for you. When I called, they were courteous and helpful. Didn't try to weasel out of anything.
Good luck.
Gabby
Call Chrysler at: 800-247-9753 with your VIN number. They will verify everything for you. When I called, they were courteous and helpful. Didn't try to weasel out of anything.
Good luck.
Gabby
Chrysler is not covering all of the tops. They are only covering the ones that originated from the states where the state attorney generals sued Chrysler for the coverage. It is always worth the effort to try, but there are posts all over this forum from owners who were told no repeatedly.
Oh well.-
I assume you know the top is warrantied by Chrysler for 10 years from orig date of purchase or 100k miles? I just had my 2005 replaced totally free by my local Chrysler dealer due to the rear glass being loose..... normally a $2600 job. As I'm sure you know, the rear glass coming loose is a common problem in Crossfire Roadsters. That's why this warranty was added by Chrysler a few years back.
Call Chrysler at: 800-247-9753 with your VIN number. They will verify everything for you. When I called, they were courteous and helpful. Didn't try to weasel out of anything.
Good luck.
Gabby
Call Chrysler at: 800-247-9753 with your VIN number. They will verify everything for you. When I called, they were courteous and helpful. Didn't try to weasel out of anything.
Good luck.
Gabby

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