FOREWARD:
When I set out to undertake this project, I wanted to experience it for myself. That is, to go at it as if it had never been attempted, to appreciate it the way those who've pioneered the upgrade have. (Read: Sucker for punishment)

That aside, I've learned quite a bit and I don't [yet] regret taking the harder route.

Also, this guide assumes a general knowledge of brakes, bleeding and installing hardware. This is not intended to be an exhaustive step-by-step build.


As others have done, I'll be upgrading the stock 2x4 piston calipers for a set of SLK55 AMG 6 piston/4 piston clampers. The factory rotors will go from 330mm (13.0") to 345mm (14.6") up front, and 300mm (11.8") to 330mm (13.0") for the rear.

(Thanks to RED DOG for the calipers, and Rudy for the brackets.)



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Tools Needed

Floor jack and jack stands (easier than having your buddy hold up the car)

(3/8" or 1/2") 10mm Caliper Bolt Hex Socket (impact compatible recommended)

(3/8" or 1/2") 18mm Socket (impact compatible recommended)

(3/8" due to clearance) 5/8" standard depth socket (rear caliper mounting bolts

5mm Hex Key (front rotor retaining screw)

Torx T30 bit (rear rotor retaining screw)

Torx T40 bit for front pad wear sending unit coupler

Torx T45 bit for front caliper mounts

Brake Bleed Kit (part Advance Auto Parts #AC3310)

Dremel with cutting wheel or angle grinder

Impact gun

Fresh DOT 3/4 brake fluid (LOTS!)

Brake cleaner or Carb cleaner

Loc-tite (blue)


Parts Needed

Replacement brake pad wear sensors (stock ones become brittle and are prone to breakage when removing). Mercedes part #210-540-1117

Custom caliper brackets (front). You can get these from Rudy (rcompart) on these very forums.

Front axle set of 345mm rotors: R1 Concepts (slotted and drilled, variants exist)
Pads: Centric Posi Quiet (Semi-Metallic)

Rear axle set of 330mm rotors: GENUINE brand via CARiD
Pads: CENTRIC Posi Quiet (Semi Metallic) 10409840

Laminated, SS-braided brake lines (brakes are off, why not):
Front Pair
Rear Pair

Set of wheel spacers (with longer bolts), 10mm, front axle (if you plan on reusing stock SRT wheels):
The description states these are for rear fitment only, however I've run them with no issues on the front. I am by no means telling to to attempt the same; do so at your own risk.
10mm Eibach Pro Spacer Kit


Important Notes
* Stock dust shield will require some modification. [front and rear]
* The stock bracket bolts will work without augmentation. [front and rear]
* The rear wheels and calipers are a direct fit.


The Install

As we've seen before, these clampers are certainly much larger than factory and well, larger than most. Truly something to behold.




As it says above, you will need to trim your dust shield to get these puppies into place. Here you can see the special mounting bracket bolted into the spindle. The exact cuts (which are simple) are seen below.



Here's a quick mock-up with the caliper bolted back into the bracket. Note that the stock SRT-6 rotor is still in place here and is obviously not compatible.



Can't hazard a guess as to why the front and rear rotor retaining screws are different, but here's a respective shot for reference.

This is where your 5mm Hex key and T30 Torx come in. I adapted my bit with a 1/4 ratchet as the rear axle screw was a bit snug.