Updated first post with all relevant part numbers. Received the brackets from Mr. Compart so the install will resume and (hopefully) complete this weekend!

 

Looks great! Do you expect any problems with fender/rocker clearance on the front with the 10mm spacers? Are you running the stock 225s?

Thanks

 

No issues with rubbing, though I'm not autocrossing so I doubt I'd find any rub if it were there. And I am running stock tires. Thanks!

 

Where did you get the spacers for the fronts and can you provide a part number? I need a set for my skinnies.

 

All part numbers are updated (with site links) in the first post, under parts.

 

Looks like the rear discs, pads and brake lines will be here soon. In preparation, I've moved the notes for the rear axle install down here... Stay tuned for more....


Rear Axles

There's quite a bit more meat to the upgraded pads!


I was a bit worried when I peeked behind the caliper to spot the mounting bolts, for fear I wouldn't have room to angle the impact in to get them loose. No worries however, as there's not much torque on these, you can easily have them out with the 5/8 socket and ratchet.

 

Now that I've had some wheel time, I wanted to expand on your question. While my first reply stands (no rubbing, etc) I've discovered that by having the spacers on the front wheels only (so far), this creates a playful amount of oversteer. It gives the inputs from the wheel a noticeable increase in output. Now, because of the wider front track this does mean that once you're turned-in around the 2:30-3:00 mark on the wheel, any gap in the steering linkage and/or body roll is a tad more exaggerated. I'll be adding some spacing to the rear eventually, so this will all work out in the end.

 

Boy, this build has seen it's share of delays. With parts discovery, wrong shipments and suppliers (CARid) who just plain do not communicate well.

But, the good news is I finally have all the hardware needed to button up this project!

Last to arrive were the rear pads, rotors and SS lines.



Although I don't have exact specs on the composition of these rotors, they sure appear to be well-made. For those of you following closely, you may notice that these rotors are cross-drilled and slotted, whereas the fronts are only slotted. I originally intended to use only slotted discs, however I was unable to find a rear set in such a configuration. Most likely, when the front discs are replaced, I'll be using drilled and slotted to match things up.

Worth noting though, if you ever find rotors that aren't drilled or slotted to your liking, R1 will do this for you, and even allow you to drop ship to them first to save time. There is of course a small fee for their services.

 

Got around to completing the install for the rear this weekend. Wanted to be finished a lot sooner, but that's how it goes...


Here's a look at the stock SRT rear rotor vs the new unit. I noticed while removing the stock discs, they're actually imbued with AMG's logo on the exterior of the brake hub/hat, neat stuff since I was almost sure that Chrysler would have at least outfitted their own supplier for this part.

Oh and as a bonus, these rotors match the retaining screw location so they'll actually hold themselves up when installing.




During this install, I found this little label hiding under some stickers. This is the box that shipped from CARid... Sneaky-sneaky! Looks like I'll just go directly to MB next time, or perhaps I can find these rotors through a cross-reference on say an E55 or whichever model around the R171 era used a 330mm rear disc.




Installing the rear calipers: Now here's something fun, the brake line input for the calipers is such that if you were to install the units backwards (exchange left for right), the line feed is DANGEROUSLY close to the ground. I mentioned earlier that this "How-To" assumed certain knowledge on the part of the DIY'er, however I want to reinforce that your brake lines should have free travel (as they move relative to your suspension). And if your lines don't look like this, then you installed the calipers backwards.




When installing/bleeding the new units, you might note that it's physically impossible to bleed all the air out with the nipple located in the south position (air floats!). To combat this, simply connect your lines, let the caliper gravity bleed (set it on the floor with the bleeder valve open) until fluid starts running out. After this, hold the caliper by hand, upside down (valve is now north) and use your vacuum bleeder to pull the rest of the air out. Make sure your pistons are fully depressed into their cylinders. If done correctly, 100% of the air comes out and your pedal will be nice and solid.



Something interesting happened during the shakedowns... Heard this weird clicking coming from the rear, somewhat like the sound the hatch lock makes when engaging. Rooted around and found that on the passenger side, the line fitting slipped through on the body side. This hasn't happened on any of the other wheels, which is odd. I'll mock up something to fix it. Not sure if it's a fluke, but I'd watch for this on your install just to be safe.



EDIT: Simply needed to reseat the female coupling into the bracket, all is well.


All of that said, the front and rear brakes are on! Wow!! The ferocity of the big pedal now matches the skinny one. Truly a massive upgrade.

 

Loving this thread!

 

Updated the rear install notes/pics! Next up is paint, new decals and some glamour shots. Thanks for following along!

 

Would it be better to use lines with banjo fittings and the the bleed nipple could be at the top?

 

I suppose it could be attempted. I decided to roll with the male/female lines as they match stock. I scanned over the calipers for some time, as well as the Web and found no reason they couldn't be mounted either way, aside from the line trailing so close to the ground.

 

Just thought I'd update this thread... It's been three months and this upgrade is still insanely impressive. Stopping power (mixed with better tires, Michelin Pilot SS) is phenomenal!

I have noticed however that during most driving, the insulating properties of the larger hardware keeps the temperatures below what I favor as optimal. True bite force doesn't become realized until a good high speed run is scrubbed off; it's then that you know what you're working with. I would like to have some cooling ducts fabricated for the front rotors though. Once they absorb lots of heat, they seem to take longer than I'd prefer to cool down. --But realistically, these are all tiny gripes, as 95% of the goal is present.

Anyway, hope this thread was helpful to folks out there who are curious or looking to pull the trigger on this or similar upgrades!

 

Are Red Dog and Rudy still offering these parts?

 

Since this thread is from 2014 you may want to PM them and ask?