Originally Posted by
ala_xfire
Agreed.
OP : does the rear bow go up after it unlatches ?
Indicate the step your failure occurs :
1. turn 'D' handle and push up. Windows should go down and top should go up about 6" and stay.
2. push top down button, trunk should latch, rear bow should release ( pop ! )
3. rear bow should raise.
4. tonneau cover should unlatch,
5. tonneau cover should raise.
6. top should start going into well.
7. tonneau cover should close.
8. tonneau cover should latch and one beep should sound.
Look around real good for any hydraulic leaks, there are 7 hydraulic components :
1. bow latch
2. tonneau latch
3. one tonneau cylinder
4. 2 'main' cylinders
5. 2 rear bow clyinders.
check the level in the pump reservoir
Originally Posted by
ala_xfire
The service manual does not list the exact sequence of events, but that microswitch should be easy to meter.
Maybe the program is waiting to see input from that switch that the unlock bow cylinder deployed correctly before firing the solenoid that supplies pressure to the rear bow cylinders.
Excellent responses, ala_xfire!
hilarushi just emailed me a link to this thread and clarified that the rear bow really only pops out of the rear bow lock, seemingly without the bow tension cylinders lifting the rear bow at all.
This could be as simple as a lot of grime preventing the micro switch in the rear bow lock from triggering.
With enough fluid in the reservoir and the pump still running without any action, that should mean either the soft top controller "thinks" the rear bow lock hasn't fully unlatched, or there is a problem with activating the solenoid/valve in the pump that is responsible for directing fluid to the bow tension cylinders (which lift up the rear window section called the rear bow). Let's check the simple, more likely case of a missing signal from the rear bow lock cylinder's micro switch. I am attaching below a picture of the micro switch on the rear bow lock when the lock is OPEN. When the latch is open, the switch is triggered by a brass-colored lever pushing on it.
That lever is actually moved by spring action, and it could be sticky. Never mind the wording "front lock" - the picture is from another site where a mostly similar latch is used (Mercedes R129 SL-Class)
The switch itself is electrically normally closed, which means the circuit is electrically OPEN when the rear bow lock is open. That's a fail safe design, in case the wires get cut. If the switch was triggered and the controller didn't get the OPEN signal, then there would actually be a short somewhere in the switch or the harness. That's rare, and that's why I suspect the lever for the switch being impacted.
P.S. Haven't been on the forum for quite a while, am just dropping in briefly now, and will be back next week...
Klaus
www.tophydraulicsinc.com
