Just got a 05 XF convertible and the top is not working properly.

I unlatch the top, then press the button, windows go down, the top unlatches on the rear, trunk locks. Then I just keep hearing a motor go for a little while nothing happens plus the beeps of course.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


Also has anyone had any luck troubleshooting the convertible with the MB Star scanner? I was able to get the MB Star to connect but the Vario Roof module doesn't connect / respond. Anyone has had luck with the MB Star Scanner on the XF?

 

When you unlatch the top do you push it up about 6-8 inches and does it stay there? If it doesn't hold it up about 6-8 inches and see if this helps.

 

I think the Vario roof diagnostics are for the SLK retracting hardtop only?

 

Agreed.
OP : does the rear bow go up after it unlatches ?

Indicate the step your failure occurs :
1. turn 'D' handle and push up. Windows should go down and top should go up about 6" and stay.
2. push top down button, trunk should latch, rear bow should release ( pop ! )
3. rear bow should raise.
4. tonneau cover should unlatch,
5. tonneau cover should raise.
6. top should start going into well.
7. tonneau cover should close.
8. tonneau cover should latch and one beep should sound.

Look around real good for any hydraulic leaks, there are 7 hydraulic components :
1. bow latch
2. tonneau latch
3. one tonneau cylinder
4. 2 'main' cylinders
5. 2 rear bow clyinders.
check the level in the pump reservoir

 

Thank you guys for all your replies.

Here is what happens.

I unlock the softtop at the D handle and push the convertible up about 6 inches.

Next I press the switch.

Windows start to go down.

Next the trunk locks.

Next the rear bow unlocks and pops up a couple of inches. And that is it. The rear bow doesn't fold up. So I am stuck here.

If I continue to hold the switch I can hear the pump run. At least I think it is the pump. But nothing happens. Just beeps at this point.

Checked the fluid level, and it is right at the MIN mark.

 

I suspect either a hydraulic leak in one or both of the rear bow cylinders, or something binding up in the rear bow hinge.
OR, the low fluid level in the pump allows enough pressure to operate the rear bow latch, but not enough to operate the lift cylinders.
First try topping up the level with Pentosin CHF 11S. ( Mopar 05127381AA ).

 

Ok I will top off the fluid as suggested.

Could it be the mircoswitch on the latch? What are the symptoms of a bad microswtich?

 

Could be. The service manual does not list the exact sequence of events, but that microswitch should be easy to meter.
Maybe the program is waiting to see input from that switch that the unlock bow cylinder deployed correctly before firing the solenoid that supplies pressure to the rear bow cylinders.

HOWEVER ! The low fluid level leads me in the direction of a leaky cylinder(s).

 

Excellent responses, ala_xfire!

hilarushi just emailed me a link to this thread and clarified that the rear bow really only pops out of the rear bow lock, seemingly without the bow tension cylinders lifting the rear bow at all.

This could be as simple as a lot of grime preventing the micro switch in the rear bow lock from triggering.

With enough fluid in the reservoir and the pump still running without any action, that should mean either the soft top controller "thinks" the rear bow lock hasn't fully unlatched, or there is a problem with activating the solenoid/valve in the pump that is responsible for directing fluid to the bow tension cylinders (which lift up the rear window section called the rear bow). Let's check the simple, more likely case of a missing signal from the rear bow lock cylinder's micro switch. I am attaching below a picture of the micro switch on the rear bow lock when the lock is OPEN. When the latch is open, the switch is triggered by a brass-colored lever pushing on it. That lever is actually moved by spring action, and it could be sticky. Never mind the wording "front lock" - the picture is from another site where a mostly similar latch is used (Mercedes R129 SL-Class)



The switch itself is electrically normally closed, which means the circuit is electrically OPEN when the rear bow lock is open. That's a fail safe design, in case the wires get cut. If the switch was triggered and the controller didn't get the OPEN signal, then there would actually be a short somewhere in the switch or the harness. That's rare, and that's why I suspect the lever for the switch being impacted.

P.S. Haven't been on the forum for quite a while, am just dropping in briefly now, and will be back next week...

Klaus
www.tophydraulicsinc.com

 

Veeeery nice.

 

Hi, hilarushi
The MB STAR system, when it made its debut, was much more capable because it was PC-based (IBM T30 laptop), but it was also very versatile

because it incorporated a HHT emulation mode (for backward compatibility) along with a "multiplexer" intermediate unit between the PC and the car,

which allowed the connection of a variety of different diagnostic connection cables, depending on which diagnostic system the car in question happened

to use. For the oldest cars (i.e. the C126, early R129 SL models, early W124s and W140s, etc.) a "four-pin" diagnostic cable was provided. For second-

generation cars, such as the E500E, 400E/E420, middle and later R129s, middle and later W140s, the familiar "38-pin" plug is provided. There are also

OBD-2 interface cables for model year 1996 and later cars, as well as a 14-pin cable for European diagnostic systems. All of these cables allow the

combination of the MB STAR with the in-line multiplexer unit to fully interface with any particular car's computers.

In recent years, Chinese forgers, who excel at making fake copies of everything from Louis Vuitton purses to Guess Jeans to Rolex watches, have set

their sights on the MB STAR market (and other automotive diagnostic systems for other marques). This has resulted in a cottage industry whereby one

could purchase an MB STAR system for anywhere between $600 and $1,200. Over the past year or so, as Chinese copies of the MB STAR C4 system

have come onto the market, the prices of the MB STAR C3 system have come down to a typical range of $250-450, depending on the vendor and the

items included in the package

 

Hey Hilarushi,

Any luck on figuring out what was wrong? mine stops in the exact same position wight he rear bow half way up.
I topped up my fluid, but doesn't seem to help at all.

please let me know. Thanks

Dustin

 

For me the problem was the left main cylinder.

https://www.youcanic.com/u/xfire/convertible-problems

 

This is very informative! Is there a diagram similar to this for the microswitches? How many are there? I know of the one in the trunk, the trunk latch, the spoiler and the roof latch near the windscreen....