I will write up a general tutorial this weekend. The most difficult part is the wiring, or rather figuring out what goes where as the resources for details are scarce. I'll specify and hopefully save someone else the trouble. Here are some general notes about the installation.

I used my multimeter set to measure resistance and the original key and ignition to determine which wires are hot when the key is in what position. Correlated that to the functions of the remote start and wired accordingly.

The only hardware pieces are a Directed transponder bypass and an RFID start module.
You'll find the bypass on ebay for ~$12, DEI 556UW.

The remote start button and module is about $40. I bought one from a Chinese shipper and one from US (from U.S. was $60). The US arrived on Friday, the Chinese arrived (in WA state) the following Tuesday.. much faster than I expected or I would not have decided to buy the second from the U.S.. lol. You can find this module by searching Ebay for "Car Engine Lock Keyless Entry Immobilizer Engine Push Start Button/RFID New"

It is important to note that this module will require you pass the keyfob within just a couple inches of the sensor. I like this, some may not, you have been warned. I am placing the sensor inside of the center console near the pocket/cupholder. If you're looking to keep your keys in your pocket, look for a different module.

I opted to power up the 556UW as soon as the RFID module is activated and the button is pressed. Some may want to wire this differently. I also was not able to completely remove the factory transponder ring from the circuit. As a result, the transponder ring will be soldered inline between the 556UW and the SKREEM module and stuck somewhere in the dash away from the 556UW.


My keyfob was trashed. I ordered a replacement black case for it for ~$7 on EBay and completely destroyed it prying the transponder out of it. You might as well add that to your parts list if you're impatient, as I am.

I did have to drill out my steering wheel lock due to being stuck and that's when I decided to go with the push button. I opted to fully remove the factory ignition switch and cut the connector off with it (with a couple inches in case I decide to replace it).

I don't know what the reliability is like on these units, so this isn't something I'd confidently say you should do on a daily driver. I have the spare unit, so if it fries, I can always replace it.

You can add the 2102T or anything else to this setup. I don't have the desire for proximity unlock nor remote start nor lights turning on nor spoilers activating.

This is a lot of trouble to replace a key switch with a button, and it complicates the way things are wired in a situation where you need to diagnose a cranking/no cranking issue. I believe proper documentation is essential to any project and the up-side here is that the factory ignition can always be reinstalled and this setup removed.

That being said, it's cool as hell and I am glad I did it. You may opt to choose an RFID system that has a greater range/distance. The wiring will be essentially the same, but of course your mileage may vary.

Back this weekend with pictures and details.