I think he has hired on with Corky at BEGi !

 

Finally, I now have push button start with the fob in my pocket.

To achieve it I had to buy only one new item.

I had to buy a Hyundai.

 

Seen an original 1949 Ford with push button start, turn the key, push the button, bingo.

 

Aww rats! It would have been a sweet mod.

 

He must work for Motus

 

nothing new on this?

 

Sadly no, this kinda fell off my radar since I've started the double din install the concept is simple but going through the service manual to find everything is a bit difficult.

 

My 1954 chevy had a factory setup almost like this. Get in turn the key and mash the little pedal on the floor.

 

I would be very interested in which push-button you used here. I don't mind using my existing lock setup, but my ignition switch is botched and I would like to replace it with a button (no key used for starting). The car is in my garage 11 months a year, so not too worried about the window getting bashed in.

 

Hi everyone,

I have nearly completed my project, though it is slightly different from OP's. If interested, let me know and I'll make a video / tut and start a thread this weekend when I reassemble my interior and finish making permanent solder connections (wires connected with twist caps during testing).

- Uses factory keyfob for lock/unlock/alarm
- Factory Key still works for doors
- Ignition switch fully removed
- Cost <$50
- Requires RFID keychain fob to be passed within a few inches of the receiver to activate the push-button capability and factory transponder bypass. (I did this intentionally, I don't want a device with significant range). Installed this sensor in center console near cubby/cup holder. Will require passing fob near it to activate car.
- Requires installing a factory transponder from a key in a bypass box. I carry this key with me for backup door locks and keyless lock/unlock.
- You can convert back to factory (with some work and some splicing for ignition switch connections)
- Push-button installs in the factory ignition switch bezel

 

I'd very much like to see a tutorial! I would ban to do this, I think!

 

I will write up a general tutorial this weekend. The most difficult part is the wiring, or rather figuring out what goes where as the resources for details are scarce. I'll specify and hopefully save someone else the trouble. Here are some general notes about the installation.

I used my multimeter set to measure resistance and the original key and ignition to determine which wires are hot when the key is in what position. Correlated that to the functions of the remote start and wired accordingly.

The only hardware pieces are a Directed transponder bypass and an RFID start module.
You'll find the bypass on ebay for ~$12, DEI 556UW.

The remote start button and module is about $40. I bought one from a Chinese shipper and one from US (from U.S. was $60). The US arrived on Friday, the Chinese arrived (in WA state) the following Tuesday.. much faster than I expected or I would not have decided to buy the second from the U.S.. lol. You can find this module by searching Ebay for "Car Engine Lock Keyless Entry Immobilizer Engine Push Start Button/RFID New"

It is important to note that this module will require you pass the keyfob within just a couple inches of the sensor. I like this, some may not, you have been warned. I am placing the sensor inside of the center console near the pocket/cupholder. If you're looking to keep your keys in your pocket, look for a different module.

I opted to power up the 556UW as soon as the RFID module is activated and the button is pressed. Some may want to wire this differently. I also was not able to completely remove the factory transponder ring from the circuit. As a result, the transponder ring will be soldered inline between the 556UW and the SKREEM module and stuck somewhere in the dash away from the 556UW.


My keyfob was trashed. I ordered a replacement black case for it for ~$7 on EBay and completely destroyed it prying the transponder out of it. You might as well add that to your parts list if you're impatient, as I am.

I did have to drill out my steering wheel lock due to being stuck and that's when I decided to go with the push button. I opted to fully remove the factory ignition switch and cut the connector off with it (with a couple inches in case I decide to replace it).

I don't know what the reliability is like on these units, so this isn't something I'd confidently say you should do on a daily driver. I have the spare unit, so if it fries, I can always replace it.

You can add the 2102T or anything else to this setup. I don't have the desire for proximity unlock nor remote start nor lights turning on nor spoilers activating.

This is a lot of trouble to replace a key switch with a button, and it complicates the way things are wired in a situation where you need to diagnose a cranking/no cranking issue. I believe proper documentation is essential to any project and the up-side here is that the factory ignition can always be reinstalled and this setup removed.

That being said, it's cool as hell and I am glad I did it. You may opt to choose an RFID system that has a greater range/distance. The wiring will be essentially the same, but of course your mileage may vary.

Back this weekend with pictures and details.

 

If you could, include a parts list, with some of the optional items (greater range RFID, for example), please!

 

I got caught up on a house project an didn't get to finalize the xfire push button setup. I did *have* to move the car and unfortunately didn't realize that I have to push the button to cycle to start. So I can press for Acc, press again for On, then third press with clutch in starts car.. need to figure out why this is happening as clutch in + press should fire the car up regardless of the Acc/On status.

Also pissed that in my rush I ruined my lower dash to the left of the ignition area. (cracked)

 

I ditched the 556U and came up with a simple solution using a transponder, the original transponder ring, and a basic relay.

Posted a thread here:
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...mobilizer.html

May not be anyone else's cup of tea -- but hopefully the wiring drawing will help someone in the future with their adventures.

I still may add a 2102T. We'll see.

 

hey OP - I would love some info on how you wired up the clutch. I want to take out the RFID component of my current system and just rely on locked/unlocked status. How did you convert the 1.5v signal from the clutch position switch into something useful?

 

Nice gimmick but with the Crossie, if the key is in my pocket I know it is off. With my '12 Jeep it is not so certain: several times I have pushed the button to stop and it hasn't. So have to be sure and not just hop out.

Just a thought.

 

Jamerian - I'm very impressed. GOOD work! Now maybe you and everyone else that understands all this electrical stuff can fix the usual Crossfire electronic problems, like the siren going off when you lock the car, the automatic door locks not working when you accelerate, Check engine light coming on when in fact, there is no problem, and on and on! I think the electronic system in these cars was designed by a disgruntled North Vietnam Viet Cong electrical engineer, if there is such a person. That, or the Germans are trying to get even with us for bombing the heck out of their country in WWII. All joking aside, your setup is very nice. I just wish I could get past all these other electrical problems. I'm new to the Crossfire. Bought mine, a 2005 Limited Coupe in September of 2017. Had it four month's now. VERY disappointed in the electrical system. Have spent upwards of $1,000.00 with the Chrysler dealer trying to fix the problems. No luck!

Jim

 

And that is the problem. Chrysler dealer is probably the last place I'd take mine unless there was a recall (and then they screwed it up). Best to find a good indy who understands Mercedes.


Would bet I have more specific Crossfire/R170 tools, manuals, and things in my garage than many Chrysler dealers.