Hi all,

I don't anticipate many other folks wanting to do this, but figured I would share the information to possibly save someone the headache in the future. This won't be a tutorial as much as some reference material, hopefully that's OK. I can sense the BS comments already, so please save them. Someone out there may be looking to do something neat to their toy as well.

I don't care for the way I setup the transponder bypass, but it will work. My advice: keep the transponder ring assembly and relay ziptied within a finger's reach of the ignition/pushbutton hole so you can get to it without taking the dash apart in the future.

To consider:
1. This will make troubleshooting no start / no crank issues much more difficult than leaving the factory ignition in place. (I don't care, this isn't a daily driver.)
2. This RFID is not like what you'd see in a Prius or similar where you can leave your keys in your pocket, you do have to swipe the fob within inches of the sensor. (I don't care, I always have my keys in my hand and swipe on the way to my passenger seat where they always sit)
3. The lower dash panel is pretty brittle, at least from my experience. I cracked my original in a noticable area. Do not over-torque screws, don't force anything, and preferably have someone hold it in place while you secure screws. Make the two bolts the first thing you put on and the last thing you take off.
4. Buy 2 of the push-button kits so you can easily swap the module when it fails. Buy a spare relay and spare 30A fuses as well.

What I used
1. RFID Immobilizer w/ Push button module
- Purchase from USA on EBay for ~$60 to receive within a week. Search "Smart Key RFID Car Alarm System W push button start & passive entry keyless go"
- Purchase on AliExpress for ~$34 to receive... eventually. Search "rfid push button"
**I purchased two of the cheaper kits (they were on EBay shipping from China for that price previously). The second is just for backup as mentioned before.
2. 12v Inline Fuse Holder $3.50
30A 12/24VDC Mini Blade In-Line Fuse Holder : Fuse Holders | RadioShack.com
3. MiniBlade 30A fuse
4. 12v SPST Automotive Relay $5
12VDC/40A SPST Automotive Relay - Radioshack


I had issues using a 556U as from what I can tell they are not intended to be used as a complete replacement for the factory transponder ring. In the end, I took the transponder ring and adhered (gorilla glue) a transponder from one of my keys to the interior, then wrapped the assembly in electrical tape so that it won't be lost if it comes loose one day. The wires for the transponder are in one bundle together. It looks like just one wire coming from it, but inside there is 1 stranded silver wire with no insulation and one small black/white wire. Leave one in tact and cut the other in half, then wire per diagram.

The key without transponder still works for the doors and unlocking/locking the car. I carry it and the RFID fob.

I put the RFID sensor inside the center console so can activate via cubby or the right side of the center console.

 

YO03UMe.jpg

 

Hey looks great, I'll probably be changing to this once I get my car out of customs.

 

I dont see why there would be any Snarky BS comments. Its a cool thing. Most new cars are coming with push button start now. I like it....Good Job.

** does it allow for just the accessory on? Most you have to press the brake to start, so if you just press without the brake would I be able to listen to the radio?

 

Coming back to the states? Are you still in the military?

 

I just think a lot of people would find it silly to cut off the ignition harness connector and solder in a $40 mod instead. I think it's pretty sweet and can't wait to get it back on the road (I let the tabs and emissions expire since I haven't driven it regularly in a year).

Yes - if you activate the RFID, then press once - it goes to ACC mode. Push again, goes to ON. Push again, changes to OFF. Push the clutch and press the button in any position (off, acc, or on) and the engine starts. You have to push the clutch in to turn off the engine too, otherwise the button does nothing.. Prevents accidentally hitting it while driving, I suppose.

I spent a good deal of time trying to completely mimic the functionality of the factory ignition switch. I used a multimeter to determine which wires were "live" in each key position and then determined which wires on the aftermarket unit corresponded with that and wired it up.

I experimented with the DEI 556U transponder bypass unit for a while.. unfortunately, it is not really intended to (completely) replace the transponder mechanism and eventually, I just gave up.

I took a transponder out of one of my keys, superglued it to the factory transponder ring, then wrapped in electrical tape. It's not going anywhere. That's where the relay comes in, simply to break the transponder signal when the ignition system is turned off. This allows you to use your transponder-less key to lock/unlock/panic and use the physical key to open the doors if your battery dies or something.


I ordered a new keyfob case to replace my OEM one since it was falling apart, this is a good time to do it since you have to rip it open for the transponder. If anyone is attempting this and has any questions, just hit me up.. did enough trial-and-error to figure out what's what.

As far as troubleshooting for no-crank/no-start issues - the wiring diagram should make that pretty straightforward. Solder all your connections, for sure. Need to disable the key chime as well.

I was able to reset the service indicator and check oil using the push-button, so you don't have to sacrifice the ability to do those things either. Worst case scenario, can re-solder in the factory connector and put the ignition switch back in.. I had it out to drill out the lock pin and decided to do away with it.

 

I think this statement takes the wind out of us who had something negative to say.

Now, if those who attempt your mod will just REMEMBER reading this statement, we will be ok...