Originally Posted by
Trenzman
I dont see why there would be any Snarky BS comments. Its a cool thing. Most new cars are coming with push button start now. I like it....Good Job.
** does it allow for just the accessory on? Most you have to press the brake to start, so if you just press without the brake would I be able to listen to the radio?
I just think a lot of people would find it silly to cut off the ignition harness connector and solder in a $40 mod instead. I think it's pretty sweet and can't wait to get it back on the road (I let the tabs and emissions expire since I haven't driven it regularly in a year).
Yes - if you activate the RFID, then press once - it goes to ACC mode. Push again, goes to ON. Push again, changes to OFF. Push the clutch and press the button in any position (off, acc, or on) and the engine starts. You have to push the clutch in to turn off the engine too, otherwise the button does nothing.. Prevents accidentally hitting it while driving, I suppose.
I spent a good deal of time trying to completely mimic the functionality of the factory ignition switch. I used a multimeter to determine which wires were "live" in each key position and then determined which wires on the aftermarket unit corresponded with that and wired it up.
I experimented with the DEI 556U transponder bypass unit for a while.. unfortunately, it is not really intended to (completely) replace the transponder mechanism and eventually, I just gave up.
I took a transponder out of one of my keys, superglued it to the factory transponder ring, then wrapped in electrical tape. It's not going anywhere. That's where the relay comes in, simply to break the transponder signal when the ignition system is turned off. This allows you to use your transponder-less key to lock/unlock/panic and use the physical key to open the doors if your battery dies or something.
I ordered a new keyfob case to replace my OEM one since it was falling apart, this is a good time to do it since you have to rip it open for the transponder. If anyone is attempting this and has any questions, just hit me up.. did enough trial-and-error to figure out what's what.
As far as troubleshooting for no-crank/no-start issues - the wiring diagram should make that pretty straightforward. Solder all your connections, for sure. Need to disable the key chime as well.
I was able to reset the service indicator and check oil using the push-button, so you don't have to sacrifice the ability to do those things either. Worst case scenario, can re-solder in the factory connector and put the ignition switch back in.. I had it out to drill out the lock pin and decided to do away with it.