Thread: Help! transmission TC P0758 & P0715
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Old Mar 7, 2015 | 02:27 AM
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JesseJamessrt6's Avatar
JesseJamessrt6
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Joined: Jan 2012
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From: SouthTX
Default Re: Help! transmission TC P0758 & P0715
92 K, The connector plug had the OEM O-rings but someone had just slapped some OEM MB sealant on it and stuck it back in. I am lucky the transfluid didn't wick up the harness into the TCU under the passenger floorboard. I wish I could have caught the problem before the trans went into limp mode. I would recommend just getting the OEM dip stick for good measure. I tried the zip tie method using a 3/8" heavy duty zip tie 36" long, split it down to about a 1/4" but it didn't quite get to the bottom of the pan before it bottomed out and must not have cleared the valve body in the case. Sticking the zip tie in the trans fill tube until it bottomed out, then marking the zip tie at the top of the fill tube neck measured about 62.5cm. The OEM dip stick is also longer than it needs to be but I measured about 64.5 cm with the OEM dip stick that has a definite bottom out feeling when measuring. 2 cm difference is 40* temp difference. just my experience with the zip though, I know others have made it work just fine.



the SC oil leak started first and I think caused by my IC leaking and went through extreme heat cycles to the supercharger (like when the IC pump fails and SC clutch disengages until the coolant temp falls) for about 2 months while Rudy built the custom cooler and Rob coated it. I believe the heat cycles are what caused pre-mature bearing/seal failure (which is an $1,800 repair job from PSE including clutch rebuild). I found a local one with about 42K on it for a good deal. Now my 62mm SC pulley is being rebuilt with my extra OEM SC pulley parts because the SC long term overheating and then oil leak caused the clutch to slip and grind up the back of the 62mm SC pulley. My old SC clutch face has grooves where there are bands of clutch material worn down leaving two bands of metal sticking out grinding into the pulley clutch face.

All new gaskets and also a new expensive piece of plastic from japan. The CV valve red retaining clip in the connector housing at the back of the SC snout has been removed a few times without harm, but this time I broke it and that was over $100 to replace. I have a pic of how to take out the old one with a ¼” drive deep 8mm socket, trick from Rob. This way you don’t have to take the snout housing off the SC which would also require you to separate the IC gasket from the SC….



2 leaks both fixed, down for one month trying trouble shoot and worked on itweekends only. I have been driving it around for 1 week now (550 miles)and everything is perfect still.



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