The transmission has been acting funny for the last couple of days. Today while driving on the highway it reved from 3K to 33K and back down and back up and back down (pretty fast) and then I lost all power from the SC which stopped working. When I came to a stop the car stayed in the upper gear and wouldn't downshift even if I tried manually. It goes into park, reverse, neutral and drive but not any low gears in drive.

From what I've read, it may be a few things, solenoid, conductor plate, transmission fluid level, speed sensor......

The trouble codes are;

P0758 ShiftSolenoid B Electrical

P0715 Input/Turbine Speed Sensor CircuitMalfunction

 

Check the fluid level first. Has the electrical connector plug ever been replaced?

 

Will do. Not for the past three years that I have had it. You think both trouble codes for just the connector or low fluid? No AT fluid puddle at work or at home parking spots.

 

I doubt your engine is doing 33k revs unless you have switched it to a turbine , 3.3K I'm guessing?
I had my 300 (same basic tranny) go into limp mode, that's the one gear (2nd) only selection and limited revs from the engine. It sounds like your condition, the reason for the one gear with limited revs is to limit damage to the tranny and still enable you to drive the car.
In my case it was a solenoid that was at fault. They rebuilt the solenoid as the car was still under warranty, I am sure if it had been customer pay they would have tried to charge me for the whole plate assembly.
I think the two components you mention are on the same plate, two plates make up the assembly, so get one only changed.

 

A low fluid level can cause all those problems. Check around the connector plug for fluid leaking.

 

great advice guys, thanks!


https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...your-gift.html




might need both?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMG-Mercedes-Benz-Blue-Top-Solenoids-Dodge-Chrysler-NAG1-722-6-Transmission-/160909103359?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2576ee10ff&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Transmission-Conductor-Plate-Connector-Mann-Filter-Gasket-722-6xx-/200952848239?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec9b91f6f&vxp=mtr

 

Solve your issue ever?

 

I finally got it fixed. A big thank you to Rob at needwings! All the necessary parts shipped fast, great patience fielding myquestions, and knew that even though the trans was still stuck in limp mode andthrowing a faulty solenoid code that it just needed a good scanner to clear thecode and get it out of limp home mode.


Here is what happened, driving on highway a month ago with aleaking supercharger, trans all of the sudden goes into limp home mode and car losespower (SC cut off), then I used a cheap OBDII scanner (ultragauge) to check thecodes, sent to codes to Rob as well as told him about the trans leak, he sentme connector plug, conductor plate, trans fluid, filter, gasket, trans dipstick (necessary in my opinion as the zip tie method wasn’t accurate I foundout). I also switched out the SC withanother used one that has 42K on it, once again thanks Rob for sending all thestuff to swap out the SC and IC. 62mm SCpulley was ground down on the clutch surface from the leak that I had making itspin and grind down (it is getting rebuilt with parts from my OEM pulley). Still had the code P0753 Solenoid Aelectrical. Rob also knew that I neededa strong scanner to (really) clear the code. The ultragauge said it cleared the code but was still in limp mode andthe code would come back as soon as shifting it into drive. I took it to a local shop just down the roadthat had a Mac brand scanner of some type that said t cleared the code but itwould come back after shifting it into drive again. I finally found a local guy that has a SnapOn Solus Ultra that has the micro SD card for all the software and didn’t needthe special European or Mercedes keys. It found a whole ton of codes still and cleared them in just secondsinstantly fixing everything. He said itwas ok to share his name and phone number with you guys in the event you wantto save a little and not take it to the Chrysler dealer. His name is Brandon, he lives close to SpringBranch TX 78070 and his number is 210-four one three-2140. I have been calling local Mercedes mechanicsin san Antonio and all of them want nothing to do with the crossfire. I even started out by telling them on thephone that it was a Mercedes slk32 amg and when they finally found out it was acrossfire srt6 they got an attitude and said don’t even bring that thinghere. The Mercedes dealer in Boerne saidthat they won’t even look at it either. It is great to get back on the road and return this stupidly expensiverental!


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So glad you got it all sorted out . . . and BIG KUDOS to Rob at Needswings . . . There is no one better to work with!!

 

Thanks for the update!

 

Jesse, how many miles were on your srt-6 prior to leak, just curious.

 

92 K, The connector plug had the OEM O-rings but someone had just slapped some OEM MB sealant on it and stuck it back in. I am lucky the transfluid didn't wick up the harness into the TCU under the passenger floorboard. I wish I could have caught the problem before the trans went into limp mode. I would recommend just getting the OEM dip stick for good measure. I tried the zip tie method using a 3/8" heavy duty zip tie 36" long, split it down to about a 1/4" but it didn't quite get to the bottom of the pan before it bottomed out and must not have cleared the valve body in the case. Sticking the zip tie in the trans fill tube until it bottomed out, then marking the zip tie at the top of the fill tube neck measured about 62.5cm. The OEM dip stick is also longer than it needs to be but I measured about 64.5 cm with the OEM dip stick that has a definite bottom out feeling when measuring. 2 cm difference is 40* temp difference. just my experience with the zip though, I know others have made it work just fine.



the SC oil leak started first and I think caused by my IC leaking and went through extreme heat cycles to the supercharger (like when the IC pump fails and SC clutch disengages until the coolant temp falls) for about 2 months while Rudy built the custom cooler and Rob coated it. I believe the heat cycles are what caused pre-mature bearing/seal failure (which is an $1,800 repair job from PSE including clutch rebuild). I found a local one with about 42K on it for a good deal. Now my 62mm SC pulley is being rebuilt with my extra OEM SC pulley parts because the SC long term overheating and then oil leak caused the clutch to slip and grind up the back of the 62mm SC pulley. My old SC clutch face has grooves where there are bands of clutch material worn down leaving two bands of metal sticking out grinding into the pulley clutch face.

All new gaskets and also a new expensive piece of plastic from japan. The CV valve red retaining clip in the connector housing at the back of the SC snout has been removed a few times without harm, but this time I broke it and that was over $100 to replace. I have a pic of how to take out the old one with a ¼” drive deep 8mm socket, trick from Rob. This way you don’t have to take the snout housing off the SC which would also require you to separate the IC gasket from the SC….



2 leaks both fixed, down for one month trying trouble shoot and worked on itweekends only. I have been driving it around for 1 week now (550 miles)and everything is perfect still.



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