Thread: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
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Old Apr 18, 2015 | 11:05 PM
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GraphiteGhost
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From: Central South Carolina
Default Re: Sticky Ignition Key Fix for all Crossfires 2004 thru 2006
Originally Posted by KDW4Him
I have just completed my second "Sticky Ign. Key Fix." For both of them I didn't take the lock cylinder out. Leaving it in can make things easier since you don't have to wrestle with the vice grips in a confined space or maybe not get it back together properly however the risk means you will be pounding on the cover while the key FOB is in the assembly risking a slip and break for the FOB. You have do decide on your own the risk you may be willing to take.

This procedure is based upon the lock cylinder being taken out while in position 1 so the entire internal guts of the assembly must be in that position to remove the assembly from the car and to remove the pin from the assembly. These steps place the internal guts in the right place at the right times and has the key FOB out of the way at the right times.

A) Proceed all the way to step 15 as described minus removing the key cylinder.
B) Before you loosen the 10mm clamp turn the key to position 1.
C) Loosen the 10mm screw.
D) Rotate the assembly while pushing the silver locking pin in but pull the assembly out just enough to place the locking pin inside the clamp area to keep it retracted. Maybe 1/4"-3/8"
E) Turn key to position 0 and remove key from cylinder.
F) Finish removing the assembly from the steering column.
G) Once completely out put the key back into the cylinder and turn to position 1 Note the locking stem retract from the end.
H) Continue with the instructions on removing the spring loaded hatch BEING VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE KEY FOB HANGING OFF THE ASSEMBLY.
I) When you have removed the spring and pin and replaced the cover turn the key to position 0 and remove the key FOB.
J) Reinstall the assembly back into the car except not fully pushing the assembly into the steering column leaving maybe 1/4"-3/8" remaining to push back in.
K) Put key in cylinder and turn to position 1 to retract the lock bar.
L) Fully reinstall the assembly into the steering column and tighten the 10mm clamp.
M) Continue reassembly per instruction sheet.

I actually test fire the car after all connections are made to make sure it stays running and I can shift into and out of gear. Once I know all is fine then I finish the dash assembly.

Note the key FOB in the assembly and in position 1 at the bottom while removing the cover.





Here is the cover removed and the pin and spring still in the assembly.





The parts removed.........




I have one pressing question and two minor points to ask/highlight. The important one is 'How thick is the cast metal at the place your clamping at with the vise-grips'? If too much pressure is applied with the vise-grips, can it crush/crack the housing? Now on to the minor highlights, When you document the MOD (great job BTW) please be sure the next owner UNDERSTANDS what your talking about. A reference to a more detailed write-up in say, the owners manual, or a separate sheet of paper, with detail exactly what a 'Sticky Key MOD' is, could enhance that line on that fuse panel card (especially since it may be years until someone actually opens that cover). The final highlight, is also a sort of a question, How The He11 Is That Dual Vise-Grips/Assembly Standing Up Like That? It seems to defy gravity being the way they look stacked in that picture angle. Great job on your post BTW!
 
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