I am having trouble adding these posts to my Chrossfire problem article. I used to do it blindfolded and now I am stumbling around with the sequence., I have got one on the master list somehow.
Also there is a problem with the Fan file, I cannot do anything to it, it says it’s a pdf file but the symbol in front of it is not and I keep getting an error notice.
I’ll keep trying to get the other battery post in place.

 

Ok, Dave. Got it. Also added links to both of my "Battery Drain" papers at the end of the "Electrical" section.
Once you learn to work with the source code, it's not bad but you MUST not make ONE typo or it crashes.

 

Let me start by stating my Crossfire key works fine. I am preparing myself for the sticky key problem that has generated over 1200 posts when only 75,000 cars were made.
I have read this entire forum. It took four hours.
I have a specific question that I suspect those with more than one Crossfire can answer, and those who have done several sticky key repairs may know.
So here goes.
From reading all these posts, I read that the key turns smooth as butter after the fix. I also saw one post that said there is reduced tactile feel when changing key positions after the fix. This got me thinking that the spring and ball under the cover are for detents in the switch. That turning the key pushed the ball against a ring with detends, and when this ball loses lubrication the detents can't push past the stuck ball, the key can't turn, and therein lies the problem. That is my theory.
If I am right, removing the ball and spring makes the detents superfluous, and the key turns like butter. That is what the fix does.
In that case, someone with more than one Crossfire—a before and an after repair car—could turn their keys and feel whether they feel detents or not. Also, someone used to using their key might notice the different feel after the repair.
I am getting to whether feeling detents is a sign that the sticky key repair has not yet been done. Has anyone noticed their key no longer having detents (stops) between positions?

 

Mine is an 07, it was built (like all 07-08s) without the offending parts. I have "detents", I don't know what people are talking about.
The wedge and spring CLEARLY drop into place to keep the locking plunger from being able to move in the "LOCK" position, nothing more.

Also, one reason the key may more a bit easier, is that many of us (I sure do) put a few drops of light oil in the cavity before putting things back together. SOme assemblies have obvious lubrication, others dont, I always add a few drops of light oil in there before I wrap things up.

 

Mine was an 04, and started developing the sticky key syndrome at about 30K miles. I determined to repair it before I had a major failure, although I did drive it for several months with the condition, being VERY wary of whether it got worse or not, which it never did. However, I finally decided to just do it and get it over with, and I am glad I did.
I noticed afterwards that the sticky key effect was gone, HOWEVER, there is STILL a sense of detents during operation of the key, and if the steering wheel is loaded, (That is, turned slightly after the engine is shut down), you MAY STILL NEED TO TURN THE WHEEL A SLIGHT AMOUNT TO REMOVE THE PRELOAD ON THE KEY. Otherwise, it can STILL be difficult to turn if the steering wheel preload is not released. But it does NOT seem to have a tendency to actually lock up.

So although the sticky key problem is solved, you still need to be aware of the steering wheel position preloading the key when trying to remove it, or turn on the ignition.

Something else I also noticed is that when you go to the "Start" position, you initiate a start sequence, similar to starting an aircraft jet engine. Once you have hit the start position, if you release the key, the "start sequence" will continue and the engine will be started, regardless. It is NOT like a Ford or Chevy, where if you turn the key and start cranking, then release pressure on the key, the starter will cease operation and everything goes back to a dead state. On the Crossfire, when you turn the key, the starting sequence is initiated, and off you go.

Just my two pfennigs.

 

Concur, 100%. The starter sequence when initiated on Mercedes continues until the engine starts. The Crossfire is not unique to this sequence.

 

Yet ANOTHER satisfied "sticky key" repair customer! As has been written numerous times in this forum, I would never have attempted this fix without the step-by-step tutorials.
I love my '05 Coupe and think that it's one of the most beautiful cars out there. I also thought the same about the '72 Ghia that I drove for 30 years...and they were both built by Karmann.

 

I owned 3 Merkur XR4Tis back in the day and they were assembled at the Karmann Plant.

 

NOt my Crossfire, what you describe, is an attribute of the cars with automatics, not manuals. And what we learned in the manuals, is if you release the key and then turn it back to "Start", nothing happens. YOu must start the cycle over by going back to "off", so the sequence is there, but it can be interrupted with the key in the manual, where it can't with an auto.

 

This video sowing how to do without removing tumbler was helpful!

 

Just finished the removal of the pin on my Northern car. The one in the south already had the "operation". A little bruised from the tight quarters and blood thinners. All this information helped greatly.