most of the work was due to it bot being done before and figuring out different ways to do it.
I also found out how to do the driveshaft without the adapter plates, with switching the props out to yokes.
if I had a spare set of props, I looked around.
the manual had a different prop than the rearend, they have the same pilots and same bolt circle diameter but different size / spline on output shaft and pinion.
if I could have found some props I would havery had that all figured out.
and also I went with a larger diameter shaft than I needed, well because it was $28 and $90 to cut it down and reballance.
For $600 I could have ordered online a 3" with slip and would have went in alot easier.
people with a automatic do not have to worry about making new mounting for the shifter linkage.

found a guy on mb forum that did a one piece but he cut off the pilots to put the yokes on, yokes would be cheaper, I found a place for $176 apiece custom make deepthroat yokes, and would not have to cut off the pilots.

but I went with the plates for if someone else wanted to do it, they could easily, I posted all dimensions and measurements for plates for all the bolts and pilots, with thickness off the plates and driveshaft length.
so if someone wanted to do, or had to redo theirs soon, they could have everything done and ready to go in.
and can do it cheaper than rebuilding oem shafts, and will end up with a fully rebuild able shaft, that is stronger and a hair lighter, steel would be alot heavier.
according to spicer the oem driveshaft should NOT be in our cars for the rpms, and it has a critical mass around 2,300 rpm, new shaft 6,800, I believe, will calculate it again in a bit.
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but stronger, cheaper, rebuildable, and just alot better.

WHY NOT ???