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Old 06-02-2018, 04:17 PM
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Heli-Cal Blue
Heli-Cal Blue is offline
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Default Re: Installation of Sprint Booster

Originally Posted by Chief
Hello Everyone,

It has been a while since I have been on the forum. I brought a Sprint Booster about 5 or 6 years ago. Well I am just getting around to installing it. My question is how do I install it on a SRT-6?
Install on the SRT-6 is the same as on any Crossfire. Here is a re-post of detail and photos that I posted in the "What did you do to your Crossfire Today" thread a few weeks ago, of how I installed mine (the new Version 3) in my SRT-6 in the way that I think serves as the most easy and most clean:

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I have always driven older classic cars, where the throttle response is instantaneous because it's attached to a rod or cable - whether that was a carbureted or fuel-injected.

So the ONLY thing that has bugged me about my Crossfire SRT-6 since getting it last October was the throttle lag. Completely unacceptable. Reading reviews and watching videos on the SprintBooster, the cost seemed to be a safe bet to nix this one awful pet-peeve; and it's GREAT! Love it. Was worth every penny. So far I've found the best all-around setting for my "authoritative" style of driving is "Green-8."

I installed the SprintBooster V3 today - however even before ordering, I wanted to have the controller reside in the ash-tray, hidden out of view - but easy to reach and use when needed. I don't like a lot of fringe and attachments, especially aftermarket stuff, and the thought of sticking this thing on the dashboard with the foam-tape was out of the question.

Seeing that the easiest way to install the SprintBooster was to remove the lower right kick-panel as others have noted - without having to remove the pedal - that worked into my plan as I would be running the SprintBooster control wire through there anyway. I also found that if you remove the lower valence-panel under the drivers side it makes it even easier to remove the kick-panel and access the pedal.

There is no easy cavity or hole large enough around the ash-tray area to run the connector through and I didn't want to drill any holes just to make it easier. However, on the opposite side, around the cigarette lighter, there is plenty of area behind the center dash-face. Rather than also removing the kick panel on that side, I simply fed the wire and connector through and behind the seam that runs from the ash-tray to the cigarette lighter, then down and through the area behind that side. I then used an old membership-card (like a credit card) to guide it down, then push it further through with a dull piece of flat-steel (thin like a hack-saw blade) maneuvering it through the vertical seam. Once through, and I could see it from the removed kick-panel on the driver's side, I merely pulled it back through to the driver's side with a set of Foerster sponge forceps.

After pulling it through I ran it to the pedal, connected it to the SprintBooster, then the SprintBooster module to the pedal, used a few difference sized zip-ties to cinch the wire to the rest of the existing loom, then replaced the kick-panel.

Once in, everything worked beautifully. I noticed when researching how it would go into the Crossfire, there weren't really many photos online of the pedal itself, where the connector can be found, views of the kick-panel removed, etc. - so I made some, and also showed how I ran the connector/controller wire through the center dash face without removing it, to get it to live in the ash-tray.

And since I don't smoke, don't use my ash-tray for storing trash, bottle-caps, chewed gum, used condoms, or anything else - I may as well put it to good use.

Panel removed:

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Running the Controller Wire and Connector through the Ash-Tray Cavity

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Last edited by Heli-Cal Blue; 06-02-2018 at 04:21 PM.