Hello Everyone,

It has been a while since I have been on the forum. I brought a Sprint Booster about 5 or 6 years ago. Well I am just getting around to installing it. My question is how do I install it on a SRT-6?

 

Chief
Click on the link below and take the advice of the 2nd poster on this tread, easier to go through the console, as opposed to taking the nut off the gas pedal. It is tight quarters for the install. I installed mine back in 2007 and did the install through the console, took less than 15 minutes and still working fine!
The thread is long, but you need to take some time for a review before you attempt the install.

BTW, welcome back to the forum. You should drive to Carlisle this July and meet some of the owners at the Carlisle Chrysler Nationals.

Dennis
DTMenace
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...r-install.html

 

I think the guy who installed it through the console was Eracer76?
This is the thread, he posted on page 8
https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum...st-have-8.html

Here's what he said

 

I need to install mine as well. How is rev matching (6 speed manual) with this? the throttle is responsive enough for rev matching. It barely needs any gas. Is it too sensitive or you get used to it?

 

It's fully adjustable if you have the new version 3. That relieves some of the issues that arose with the earlier versions which were "all or nothing" and made driving stick a bit of a chore to go easy.

.

 

Install on the SRT-6 is the same as on any Crossfire. Here is a re-post of detail and photos that I posted in the "What did you do to your Crossfire Today" thread a few weeks ago, of how I installed mine (the new Version 3) in my SRT-6 in the way that I think serves as the most easy and most clean:

----------

I have always driven older classic cars, where the throttle response is instantaneous because it's attached to a rod or cable - whether that was a carbureted or fuel-injected.

So the ONLY thing that has bugged me about my Crossfire SRT-6 since getting it last October was the throttle lag. Completely unacceptable. Reading reviews and watching videos on the SprintBooster, the cost seemed to be a safe bet to nix this one awful pet-peeve; and it's GREAT! Love it. Was worth every penny. So far I've found the best all-around setting for my "authoritative" style of driving is "Green-8."

I installed the SprintBooster V3 today - however even before ordering, I wanted to have the controller reside in the ash-tray, hidden out of view - but easy to reach and use when needed. I don't like a lot of fringe and attachments, especially aftermarket stuff, and the thought of sticking this thing on the dashboard with the foam-tape was out of the question.

Seeing that the easiest way to install the SprintBooster was to remove the lower right kick-panel as others have noted - without having to remove the pedal - that worked into my plan as I would be running the SprintBooster control wire through there anyway. I also found that if you remove the lower valence-panel under the drivers side it makes it even easier to remove the kick-panel and access the pedal.

There is no easy cavity or hole large enough around the ash-tray area to run the connector through and I didn't want to drill any holes just to make it easier. However, on the opposite side, around the cigarette lighter, there is plenty of area behind the center dash-face. Rather than also removing the kick panel on that side, I simply fed the wire and connector through and behind the seam that runs from the ash-tray to the cigarette lighter, then down and through the area behind that side. I then used an old membership-card (like a credit card) to guide it down, then push it further through with a dull piece of flat-steel (thin like a hack-saw blade) maneuvering it through the vertical seam. Once through, and I could see it from the removed kick-panel on the driver's side, I merely pulled it back through to the driver's side with a set of Foerster sponge forceps.

After pulling it through I ran it to the pedal, connected it to the SprintBooster, then the SprintBooster module to the pedal, used a few difference sized zip-ties to cinch the wire to the rest of the existing loom, then replaced the kick-panel.

Once in, everything worked beautifully. I noticed when researching how it would go into the Crossfire, there weren't really many photos online of the pedal itself, where the connector can be found, views of the kick-panel removed, etc. - so I made some, and also showed how I ran the connector/controller wire through the center dash face without removing it, to get it to live in the ash-tray.

And since I don't smoke, don't use my ash-tray for storing trash, bottle-caps, chewed gum, used condoms, or anything else - I may as well put it to good use.

Panel removed:

yvABQ63h.jpg


Running the Controller Wire and Connector through the Ash-Tray Cavity

pBm9n3Sh.jpg

5pLLxMRh.jpg

9KBiuXbh.jpg

42uUsqUh.jpg

dnxMHf6h.jpg

Y8M98mwh.jpg

NxljVqLh.jpg

wgFjpLMh.jpg


--------------------------------

 

The SprintBooster module connected; there is a space within the steel support housing above the pedal that makes for a good cavity to fit the moduele's harness out of the way:

I2aR1g4h.jpg



The wire tucked in and zip-tied out of the way:

o5LpB5Kh.jpg

l7YFxNoh.jpg



All back together:

vIsxUO9h.jpg

sn5nEe9h.jpg

2MX8FLCh.jpg

N9IH4OJh.jpg

aYPCzC0h.jpg



-----------------

 

This is awesome! Thank you for documenting this!