Keep in mind I am not standing by your car, I have little more than your post to go on.
Let's look at this:
Originally Posted by
Barbarasouix
Hi my car will not start. I drove it about 900 miles straight then parked it and maybe something was left on maybe not but it will not try to start now. All lights are on but it does not crank just nothing.
So no crank, nothing, but lights came on. So battery was not DEAD, might have been weak but not dead. A very weak battery in these cars will prohibit the pulse module from engaging the starter at all. But it COULD have been a bad RCM solder point, etc.
So disconnected one cable from the battery (the red one) couple days later reconnected it put cables on it to try and jump it. This time it tried to start the first two times then nothing again.
At this point, the starter engages but we get the "Bad SKREEM" symptom. So the SKREEM was ok, until this point. Sounds like the act of putting the jumper cables on blew the SKREEM - we have seen this before. Ok, so now the starter engages, now we know the RCM was fine and the no crank was due to a very low battery.
It’s seemed like it was going to start so we waited longer for the jumper things to charge but still nothing. Any ideas? Do I have to have it towed in to the dealer m? Is my battery maybe dead? Wouldn’t jumping it make it start then?
oh this may it may not have anything to do with it but the key fob would not work the doors so I used the key to get in and replaced the battery in the fob. But now I have both keys one works the doors one does not
The door lock/unlock is in the SKREEM as well. With one FoB working and one not, sounds like the rolling code in the SKREEM for one key has changed, you can probalby reprogram the buttons in that FOB using the procedure - but that won't make the car start. This is a distraction, once you put a new SKREEM in, you can program both Key FOBs to lock/unlock the doors, it's easy, takes 30 seconds per key.
I really think you blew the SKREEM when you jumped the car. Again, I was not there, but from what you have typed here, that is what I think.
The replacement of the SKREEM is simple - it plugs in. But it's not easy: You gotta take the lower part of the dash loose, then pop the instrument panel out, the SKREEM sits behind the speedometer. Not as bad as it sounds - the worst part is the $700 for the SKREEM.
If BOTH keys cause a "three tries and nothing" , then it's the SKREEM. IF you find that one key starts the car and the other does not, well, you have a bad RFID chip in one of the keys. Disconnect the battery and reconnect it and try one key. If it starts and dies, try the other key. IF it starts and dies, you need SKREEM.
Don't disconnect/connect the battery and get three tries too many times - rumor has it the ECM will self destruct after so many tries. Then you need a $1500 ECM as well.