Originally Posted by
onehundred80
The best testers are the ones that test the battery under a severe load, hand held testers do not check the ability to work under a heavy load like a starter motor. It has happened on here before that the OK was given to a battery but it subsequently failed the load test.
These heavy load testers have the battery fully enclosed just in case it shorts inside and explodes.
So - took the battery to Walmart for the big load test and they said it was rated at 600 cranking amps and it was delivering 0 - so under a severe load it failed. Bought a new H6 battery, charged it to 100% before installilng it, installed it and ... nothing - still no starter action. Back to the diagrams to figure out how all this stuff plays together.
Originally Posted by
ttmmdd
You might consider that the small flash of current you see when trying to start might indicate a loose/bad connection. The connection might be good enough to briefly make a circuit but not good enough to carry any amps, even the low amps to operate the solenoid. Maybe there might be a way to install a jumper between points in the starting circuit. You might even have a broken wire.
I'll dig a bit deeper into the digrams and figure out how and where to ohm out the circuit. I see one connector (I think it's c200) that is supposed to be behind the instrument cluster ... not a big fan of removing interior parts as they never go back as tightly as they were before. ala_Xfire stated that there was another member that had this problme and DID find a bad wire. I'll need to find that thread and give it a read.