Originally Posted by
RL67037
Solution achieved ... I think. As the months wore on, the issues became more like the SKREEM problems as I could get the car to crank a couple of times if I unhooked the battery cable and reconnected it. But, sometimes by doing this, it would start, so I wasn't convinced that it was the SKREEM. Reading the FB posts from people that had used SOS Diagnostics and Precision ECU, I finally bit the bullet and went with the immobilizer delete that Precision ECU offered. It was a couple of hundred cheaper than SOS and I was OK with not having the SKREEM in there. Got the parts back today, installed the ECU (left the SKREEM on the bench), followed the instructions to let the car recognize the now reprogrammed ECU and then tried to start the car ... AND IT FIRED RIGHT UP!! Shut it off and tried again and it started right back up. So, for now, I hope this issue is now behind me and I will never have to worry about that stupid SKREEM again. Curiously, one of the problems that I noticed as all this was going on was when the car would crank, it would only crank if I held the key in the start position. Now, I can let the key fall back to the RUN position and the car will still continue to crank until it starts. Not a big deal, but I found that interesting that the "auto crank" (or whatever you call it) was starting to not work as the symptoms worsened.
Side note: without the SKREEM, your FOB will no longer lock or unlock your doors - no biggie to me - at least for now it's not.
RL
That sounds very good. Can you please tell me how the procedure is that precision ECU give you to recognize your ECU?
And it where very helpful if you can open the Skreem (the plastic cover) and make a picture of it. I want to understand how they do it. Please share this with us!
And as CL770 also wrote, you can put the skreem back in your car, only connect the big black connector with the mechanical lock. So you can open and close the car with your key fob.
Have Precission ECU open your key fob?