Turn key to "ON", wait 30 seconds.

Does the engine cooling fan slowly run up to warp speed? If so, the engine control relay on the RCM is not closing, or a solder land between the relay and the connector on the edge of the board is your problem.
If the fan DOES NOT warp to high speed, this is, possibly, going to get complicated.

 

The only fan running is for the cooling RCM box where the relays are, through a small tube at bottom of box

 

Have you tried the CPS Crank Shaft Position sensor?

 

I thought it would still turn over

 

Yes, it will, even if you unplug the CPS.
Have you thought about the pulse module ?

 

What is the pulse modual and where is it located
thanks for your help

 

The pulse module is what engages the starter when you bump the key to the start position.
It ensures that the starter is not engaged too long.
You will find it located in the under hood fuse box closest to the fender.

 

 

Not certain, but since the wire color changes, it must be a wiring connector.
And lo and behold, I found it !

And it's located inside the box by the battery :

 

 

I'm thinking you are correct, bad starter / starter solenoid.
( make sure the B+ is present at the starter on the big red cable )

 

Cmilo - did this turn out to be a bad starter? If so, before the starter gave out, did it give you any indication that it was getting weak? Mine is doing the same thing and I have already sent my RCM to DJ for a complete rebuild. He gave it a clean bill of health but I still get the "all lights on but no crank" symptom when I try to start the car. My next step was to check the pulse module.

In my case, the car (SRT) started just fine like it always had and I drove the car to a car show and parked it. It sat for about 5 hours. I came out to leave and got the "all lights work but no-crank" symptom. I had done the RCM resolder years ago but thought that I didn't do a good job so I pulled it out and soldered the 3 contacts again. Still no joy. Sent the RCM to DJ and asked for a complete rebuild thinking that some relays had gone bad. He said it worked fine when he got it, but did what I asked and it worked fine (again) in his car. Still didn't work in my car. Put a charger on the battery to make sure it was fully charged and still got nothing. After searching on here I saw that the pulse module might be suspect and then I found this thread.

Would like to know what the final outcome of your problem ended up being.

Thanks!!

 

ala_xfire - I've seen you post a few diagrams over the years pertaining to the pulse module. From a 2014 post and from this post, I am learning that the C106 connector is in the same box as the RCM but the actual Pulse Module is in the driver's side fuse box under the fuses - is that correct? If so, how do I go about getting the fuse tray out of the driver's side box? Are there any "gotchas" I have to be aware of?

Thanks!!

 

It's not under the fuse panel, it is beside it on the fender side.

 

Thank you, sir!! I'll check that when I get home.

 

Thanks to all for the info & suggestions here! I like learning every time I log in, about the PCM, for example. But my dumb a$$ just has to ask; load test the battery? (too bad Cmilo did not post any outcome, I don't understand that)

 

Solution achieved ... I think. As the months wore on, the issues became more like the SKREEM problems as I could get the car to crank a couple of times if I unhooked the battery cable and reconnected it. But, sometimes by doing this, it would start, so I wasn't convinced that it was the SKREEM. Reading the FB posts from people that had used SOS Diagnostics and Precision ECU, I finally bit the bullet and went with the immobilizer delete that Precision ECU offered. It was a couple of hundred cheaper than SOS and I was OK with not having the SKREEM in there. Got the parts back today, installed the ECU (left the SKREEM on the bench), followed the instructions to let the car recognize the now reprogrammed ECU and then tried to start the car ... AND IT FIRED RIGHT UP!! Shut it off and tried again and it started right back up. So, for now, I hope this issue is now behind me and I will never have to worry about that stupid SKREEM again. Curiously, one of the problems that I noticed as all this was going on was when the car would crank, it would only crank if I held the key in the start position. Now, I can let the key fall back to the RUN position and the car will still continue to crank until it starts. Not a big deal, but I found that interesting that the "auto crank" (or whatever you call it) was starting to not work as the symptoms worsened.

Side note: without the SKREEM, your FOB will no longer lock or unlock your doors - no biggie to me - at least for now it's not.

RL

 

Hi

If you want your FOBs to work, just re-install your SKREEM but don't plug in the CAN connector.