Old Jan 17, 2021 | 03:28 PM
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jason_cruse
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 9
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From: Oregon, CA
Default What else should I check before ordering a replacement Header Latch Switch?

So my SRT-6 roadster was sitting outside in the Pacific NW for a few years, undriven (young kids, new business, etc...), and has had a few issues as a result. I've been slowly bringing it back from the dead, and have already replaced a flooded central locking pump (after disassembling the trunk lid and spoiler and re-sealing with caulk rope). I was hoping the new CLP would restore function to the top, and it did stop the convertible switch light from flashing while driving, but it appears the header latch switch may have also gone bad. When unlatching the top and pushing it up, the windows do NOT go down, and when trying to press the console switch to retract the top, it beeps slowly (only while holding down the button), indicating the signal that the top has been unlatched isn't making it to the BCM and/or TCM. The latch hooks do have some rust on them, and when driving around the passenger latch was making an awful metal grinding sound when going over bumps, etc. A little WD-40 and a thin layer of silicone grease on the hook fixed the grinding, but I'm assuming the corrosion might have made it into the switch as well.

Is there anything else I should check before ordering a replacement switch? I have a multimeter, but am not that versed in its use. For example, would a faulty trunk divider switch prevent the windows from going down when unlatching the top?
 
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