So my SRT-6 roadster was sitting outside in the Pacific NW for a few years, undriven (young kids, new business, etc...), and has had a few issues as a result. I've been slowly bringing it back from the dead, and have already replaced a flooded central locking pump (after disassembling the trunk lid and spoiler and re-sealing with caulk rope). I was hoping the new CLP would restore function to the top, and it did stop the convertible switch light from flashing while driving, but it appears the header latch switch may have also gone bad. When unlatching the top and pushing it up, the windows do NOT go down, and when trying to press the console switch to retract the top, it beeps slowly (only while holding down the button), indicating the signal that the top has been unlatched isn't making it to the BCM and/or TCM. The latch hooks do have some rust on them, and when driving around the passenger latch was making an awful metal grinding sound when going over bumps, etc. A little WD-40 and a thin layer of silicone grease on the hook fixed the grinding, but I'm assuming the corrosion might have made it into the switch as well.

Is there anything else I should check before ordering a replacement switch? I have a multimeter, but am not that versed in its use. For example, would a faulty trunk divider switch prevent the windows from going down when unlatching the top?

 

NO.

But if the pump was flooded, i wonder if the top module is also bad. The latch switch wires to the top module, and the top module communicates over the CAN BUS to the BCM.
I'd want to verify the top module is OK. You can simulate the action of the latch switch by getting into the wiring harness at the top module. Cut that wire and ground the end going to the module with the key on, if the windows don't go down, the issue is not the latch switch.

 

Wouldn't the flashing top switch light while driving (before I replaced the CLP) indicate the PTCM is working? It was trying to notify me that something was wrong when it couldn't communicate with the CLP...? I'll still try out grounding the switch wiring to see if that does anything, but the PTCM is also above the trunk deck and there was only an inch or two of water in the right well of the trunk where the CLP is located (left well was dry as was the carpeted deck floor).

 

No, it means that the PTCM has power and that an error condition exits.

The error, in descending order of likelihood, can be:
1) The PTCM has lost sync, that is, it has lost track of what position the cylinders are in. (Manually raising and lowering the top completely, with key on, usually clears this.)
2) The PTCM has determined that one or more cylinders are in an 'impossible' position - usually means a bad travel sensor, or other sensor, but you can try the procedure in 1) above.
3) The PTCM itself has an unknown hardware or software defect. Replacement of the PTCM is your only option.
4) There are issues on the CAN BUS, such that the PTCM can't communicate with other modules on the bus.

 

Um, anyone got a diagram of the PTCM pinouts? Trying to figure out which one is the feed from the Header Latch Switch...

 

 

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LET THIS BE ANOTHER REASON TO OPEN THE TWO RUBBER PLUGS BELOW IN THAT CAVITY WHERE THE WATER COLLECTS! IF any seals fail, any water can/will drain without ruining various modules there. These plugs are accessible below the car, rearward of the axle on both sides of the cavity below the hatch/trunk. I used a #2 Phillips screwdriver and poked a hole through both of them, no accumulation of any damaging water if done right, ever!.


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Nice! Thank you!

 

Jason,
Did you ever solve your convertible top problem? I am pursuing the same problem. pizzaguy has been a great help in assisting me. He's the best inn my estimation. How do I use my multimeter to check the PTCM points?