Expanded list of lamp sizes (HID, Halogen, and LED), all in one location.
PLEASE STICKY THIS!
2008.08.10 Update: 1) Created a workaround for the issues with LED lamps flickering and failing, which is an acute issue especially in the license plate fixture. See license plate lamp section for the workaround. (This probably also solves the issue of LEDs flickering and failing in the interior fixtures of the vehicle as well (like the glovebox), though I haven't tested it yet).
2) Issues with resistors and "lamp out" indicator persist, see bottom of post.
3) Now testing white LED replacements for high beam and fog lamps. Will post results soon!
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Headlamp: Low Beam (Quantity 2)
Standard: H7 Halogen
Alternate: H7 High Intensity Discharge (HID).
Notes: 4,300K is the average color temperature on cars equipped with HID out of the factory. 4,300K is also the most often suggested HID color temperature for the Crossfire on this forum. 4000K is yellow-white, 6,000K is white-blue, 8,000K is green-blue, 10,000K is blue, 12,000K is purple. Another thing to consider: white LEDs generally give off a color temperature of about 6,000K. If you install the eyelid lamps I suggest below then your car will look best with 6,000K HID lamps to match.
Headlamp: High Beam (Quantity 2)
Standard: H7 Halogen
Alternate: LED:
I am now testing white (6000K) LED alternates. Stay tuned! - 2008.08.10
Notes:
Do not use an HID lamp in this position! HID lamps take considerable time to get to full bright; you want your high-beams to come on at full intensity instantly. Also, HIDs should NEVER be turned off and on without giving them a five minute cool down period.
Headlamp: Fog (Quantity 2)
Standard: 9006
Alternate: HID: 9006
Alternate: LED:
I am now testing white (6000K) LED alternates. Stay tuned! - 2008.08.10
Notes: See "Headlamp: Low Beam" notes.
Parking: Front ("Eyelids") (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 158, 168 White
Notes: After testing a few options the brightest LED model I found was a white, 9 LED surface mounted 194 lamp. The color temperature also closely matched my 6,000K HID headlamps. This is the most difficult to change lamp in the entire car: you will need needlenose pliers to turn the gray socket-****. Just know that it can be changed without removing the entire headlight assembly or any other equipment. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Parking: Front Sidemarker (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 168, 657 Amber
Notes: I suggest a 5-LED 194 lamp with four side-firing LEDs, and one top mounted for this position. Angle the lamp when installing it to fit it in the fixture. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Parking: Rear Sidemarker (Quantity 2)
Standard: 2825
Alternate: LED: 2825, 194, 168, 657 Red
Notes: see Front Sidemarker notes.
Turn Signal: Front and Rear (Quantity 4)
Standard: 7507A
Alternate: LED: 7507 Amber
Notes: The brightest LED I have found is a 57-LED Amber 7507 sold by eBay user "cal-motor". The lamp is the largest diameter that will fit in the fixture (26mm wide). It is comparable to the standard turn signal in intensity. When installing these you'll want to put a small amount of the least-stick glue you can find in the socket with the lamp. You'll need to push the lamp into the socket, and remember that it fits (though just barely). The glue is to keep the lamp attached to the socket whenever you try to remove it from the light fixture housing (both front or back turn signals). The most annoying thing in the world is trying to retrieve the lamp from the fixture using needlose plyers if it falls out of the socket. Just keep in mind that you want the glue to be cheap stuff so that you can replace the lamp if it ever fails. You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow and lamp will flash fast).
Tail Brake (Quantity 2)
Standard: 7528
Alternate: LED: 7528, 1157 Red
Notes: Again, I'm going to suggest the ebay user "cal-motor"'s 57-LED 1157 for this position. It matches the amber turn signal in output, pattern, and size, and similarly is the largest lamp that can fit in the fixture. You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
Third Brake
Part of the car. Don't break it.
Back-Up (Quantity 2)
Standard: 7506
Alternate: LED: 7506, 1156, 1141, 382 White
Notes: I went with the 57-LED 1156 from ebay user "cal-motor" as it was the largest LED lamp I could fit in the fixture. It also matches my tail lamps and turnsignals in looks both illuminated and off. You do sacrifice a small amount of light when switching to a LED for this purpose; but who knew backing your car up could grab so much attention? You will need a 6 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
License Plate (Quantity 2 *See Order Notes)
Standard: 6418
Alternate: LED: 6418 White
Notes: This lamp is 36mm in length. I suggest a festoon 2-LED lamp that is built in a rectangular metal casing about the same size as the factory lamp. It is difficult or impossible to fit a square configuration LED in this spot. Also, many of the six-LED variations (shown below as an attachment with a NO sign on it) are not sealed and fail quickly because of rust from moisture. You will need a 15-25 Ohm resistor for each of these lamps (lamp will function w/o, but light-out indicator will glow).
UPDATE: These smaller LED lamps flicker and die for two reasons: 1. the most common model (shown below as a white cylindar with six LEDs and silver conections on either side) is not sealed and the connections on the inside rust and short. 2. The Crossfire was never meant to use LED lighting; the wiring produces overvoltages that while safe for standard lamps are disasterous for small LEDs.
Here are the workarounds:
1. Get the type of LED light now shown below with two LED lamps on an all metal fixture. The only thing you'll need to do to seal it place a piece of clear packaging tape firmly over the two LEDs. Hover over the thumbnails below to see which 6418 LED is wrong, and which is right.
2. Buy this voltage regulator and install it in between the lamp and the battery (or if you're using load resistors, in between those and the lamp): http://theledlight.com/rg12regulator.html
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Glove Box, Cargo Area, Map (Quantity 4)
Standard: 6418
Alternate: LED: 6418 White
Notes: See License Plates Order Notes. Inside does not need resisitor.
UPDATE: I still haven't gotten all of the resistors to work - my "lamp out" indicator is still illuminating. I'm not particular enough to go to the extreme length required to install all of the load resistors, and have instead installed a tiny piece of black electrical tape on my dashboard to cover the "lamp out" indicator. |
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