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Old Jan 11, 2022 | 12:21 PM
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WD40
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Joined: May 2019
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From: Alabama
Default Re: Full Auto Transmission Fluid Replacement

Originally Posted by dedwards0323
Only have 28,000 or so on the ODO, but it has been nearly 15 years since the car was manufactured. Probably wil use the Shell 134 transmission fluid that's readily available. Maybe a complete transmssion kit like these: CLICK. Don't know if anyone else has used the Blauparts.com website, but some of their pricing is attractive compared to other M-B focused websites.
I had bought 6 liters of 236.10 ATF when my intention was to remove only 5 liters. 236.10 is the original fluid and you are not supposed to mix different versions of Mercedes ATF. So when I changed my plan I still bought more 236.10 as I was committed to it by then. If you are CERTAIN you can get ALL the old stuff out then sure, buy 236.14.

Well call me lazy, but I've only worked on the car on Friday & Sunday night! I'm not in a race and I always do car work in a therapeutic way, meaning I use it to take away my stress, not add to it. So where am I? The pan's off. I polished the bottom of it but only cleaned-up the inside. The brand-NEW pan gasket in my eyes was closer to NOS than new, and it came from a Mercedes dealer! I spent a half-hour rubbing it with microfiber cloths soaked in rubber-cleaner until I stopped getting dark-black residue off it. Then I spent another 15 minutes rubbing it down with AT-205 RESEAL... one of those "miracle chemicals" that's supposed to swell-up & rejuvenate rubber seals.

The only "fights" I've encountered have all been with the pilot bushing that the transmission's electrical connector attaches to. That is the "trouble part" which always ends up leaking, as it did in my case. And although some videos have recommended making it part of any ATF drain & fill it is not part of the normal Mercedes service, even though it has been such a failure that there have been 3 different versions of it!!! The one I removed was the factory original with clear/opaque O-rings. The current version has black O-rings and I've no idea what version #2 looked like. So to remove it there were all sorts of on-line suggestions of what tool to use but none of them worked for me. I used the claw-portion of a claw-hammer to get extra purchase on the rotating-tab of the pilot bushing, and that allowed me to apply enough pressure to move it after 17 years of being stationary. I carefully marked with white-paint the locations of the electrical-connector & the pilot-bushing so I'd know exactly where to put them back in. But... I tried over and over to get the new bushing back in but it just would not seat properly. I'll get back to it tonight with some new ideas:
Those ideas are...
(key advice: PUSH HARD to seat new bushing!)
key advice: LUBRICATE O-rings with ATF! Or perhaps something even more slippery! (BTW I used silicone spray before, but no dice)
key advice: Use CELL PHONE to see inside hole & ENSURE PINS ALIGN! (Although I might use a hand-mirror)
If all that fails I can always reinsert the old one and slink up to the local Mercedes specialist in defeat. But never once in my time repairing cars have I ever done that! Not a good time to start now either!




 

Last edited by WD40; Jan 11, 2022 at 01:43 PM. Reason: spelling
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