Originally Posted by
red_2005_convertible
Sorry for belaboring the point, but I haven't been able to get to removing the SKREEM and ECU until tonight. After re-reading all of the posts, before I remove parts I just want to check if my symptoms still indicate a SKREEM problem. About 4 months ago, I pulled into my driveway and turned off the car. The next day I tried to start it, and got no crank - dash lights went on, windows worked, door locks worked, but no crank. After reading some of the suggestions, I left my key in for more than 30 seconds, the fans didn't go on, and still no crank. Tried the quick key thrust, nothing. Disconnected the negative terminal for a day, put the battery on a charger. Connected the battery again, the rear spoiler went up, still no crank. Tried to move the shifter out of park, won't move even with the key in the ON position (is that also a symptom of a bad SKREEM?) and the rear spoiler won't go down even when the key is in the on position. Starter and solenoid are good - jumped the pulse module. I do have rodent problems - the recent issue was they chewed through the windshield washer motor cable, and the reservoir sensors located under the battery (could they have chewed something else that is preventing starting?) I guess it can hurt removing the security program, but if I don't have to spend $450, I don't want to.
Thanks in advance,
-Jerry
This does not sound SKREEM related to me.
The fact you have a "no crank" and a "won't come outta park" tells me that some of the switched ignition power is missing. THis is often the RCM.
If you have had wiring chewed, ANYTHING is possible. I'd grab a DMM and the service diagrams in the service manual and start tracing power to all of the following:
ECU/PCM
RCM (inputs and outputs)
SKREEM
TCU (Transmission Control Unit)
(SLA) Shift Lever Assembly
Now, the easy way is to troubleshoot ONE symptom at a time. Often, all symptoms are caused by the same failure, not multiple failures. So, what single failure can inhibit the functioning of the starter and the Park lock solenoid and also cause the wing to deploy when you turn the key on? Easy: Power missing or unstable to the Brake Controller will cause the last two issues but won't cause the fan to run fast, and yours doesn't. I'd start there.
You need someone good at electronic troubleshooting and following wiring diagrams. Essentially no dealer (because 'mechanics' are ignorant of electronic theory and there is no factory support to help them) or garage (again, 'mechanics' who understand electronic troubleshooting are rare) can help you there. Probably easier to drive the car off a cliff or sell it for parts.
Or............. you can learn to do this yourself. Now, we have several forum members that are currently working on cars near them for reasonable rates but you give no location in your profile which makes it impossible to know who is close to you, so I can't recommend anyone.