Originally Posted by pizzaguy

Please don't be offended, but you can't expect ANYONE to be able to help without the full story. We are not standing next to your car, you are. We only know what you tell us, the car is a complex set of systems and even describing a symptom can be hard to do I know, consider how hard it is to understand.


I did not see this before. This is where you start. There are a lot of reasons, but just understand, as long as you have this going on, you can't proceed with the rest. A drain that bad can easily be caused by the same thing that is making the top and wing act up - fix the drain and you might be surprised at what else starts working fine. Many will tell you to "disconnect the siren" because it is a common issue. MY TAKE: How much time do you want to take with this? If you want to get it over with, hook up a meter and find, for sure, what is going on. SLow, methodical procedures tend to deliver faster, better results than "quick fixes" and guesses. If it IS the siren, it will be easy to prove and once you disconnect the siren, you will know what you current is after that. Unusually high standby current can be an important clue to other issues, and not just a source of a dead battery. At the end of this post will be a PDF on how to find where that current is going and just how much is flowing.

yea car was stored from October until last week. Stored cars are more work to keep going, like it or not. Mine was stored for 18 months when I bought it, it took me almost two years to work thru all the issues.
Yours should not be THAT bad...

I did notice a severed wire below the relay module box, where the RCM IS LOCATED.
it is a very thin wire. Has been like that for years. Rodent damage - how can that not be a sign of rodent damage? YOu've owned the car since new.

there is any moisture anywhere. The car has always been stored inside a garage. OK, but just know that I've changed a CLP/SSM on a car that was "in the garage all the time". IT was ruined, they'd gone on a trip and drove in rain on the way home, put the car up for winter, and had no top/spoiler operation in the spring. I got a used CLP/SSM and partial wiring harness from a junked car and they were good to go!

the bas/esp came on 2 years ago. So it is not related to the top/wing issue, this re-enforces my suspicion of a wet CLP/SSM.

I have done the steering turn from right to left a couple of times. No luck
last fall the top and spoiler issue started and yes I did the manual open and close top up and down 3x no luck

Ok, see? THe BAS crap has nothing to do with your top/spoiler. Based on the above, here is what I would do:

1) Find and fix the excessive standby battery current.
2) Car storage batteries are designed to source up to 250 or more amps for a few seconds, but they HATE sourcing a few amps for hours -so the battery is probably gone. Consider a new battery but ONLY after you FIX the problem.

3) Once you get the above done, let's see what the top and wing do. A real BAS/ESP issue will cause the wing to act up but usually will not stop the top from working. A wet CLP/SSM will screw up both. So, rip the trim from the trunk, get into the CLP/SSM and unplug every connector that connects to it. Look for green/white grungy gunk in the connectors - a sign of water intrusion. If you see ANY, you found your problem. If the connectors look nice, we can move on.

Let's start there. DO NOT start a new thread once you do the above, come back to this thread and we can continue. This may be a long process, but once we get the battery so it will last three weeks or more, and top and wing working, we can move on to the other stuff.